Recommendation? Hardness --

G

gipelprup

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Nov 12, 2014
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I know this will make you purists cringe . . . but . . . if I decide to ignore all the spheroids, austentite, etc., science/metallurgy/etc., hours of "soaking" and sub-zero stress relieving and gosh-only-knows-what else, and try to heat-treat D-2 in the "traditional" high-carbon method -- 1850-or-so f. briefly, quench in old motor oil - what sort of Rockwell C reading am I likely to get? -- gip.
 
gipelprup said:
I know this will make you purists cringe . . . but . . . if I decide to ignore all the spheroids, austentite, etc., science/metallurgy/etc., hours of "soaking" and sub-zero stress relieving and gosh-only-knows-what else, and try to heat-treat D-2 in the "traditional" high-carbon method -- 1850-or-so f. briefly, quench in old motor oil - what sort of Rockwell C reading am I likely to get? -- gip.
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D2 is an air hardening steel, so no oil quench is required.
You should wrap it in stainless steel foil to prevent de-carburization since you don't have an atmospheric oven.
 
Oil would probably cause D2 to crack. Find an actual HT manual and follow that
 
my local foundry is kind enough to include some pretty detailed hardening & tempering info... not bothering to understand the details of d2 is how people end up with junk d2

proper d2, with attention to ht details is what people really want when they deal with d2, and why certain d2 specialists can get top dollar
https://industeel.arcelormittal.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/DS-TOOL-D2.pdf

...
your old school ht approach is fine if you stick to 1080 or 1075 simple carbon steel, don't ruin perfectly good d2 with it
 
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Why half-ass it? Making a knife isn't easy even if you send your blades out for heat treatment. Go through all that effort just to end up with a lousy result. :confused:
 
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