Hartsfeld Inspired Knives

me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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I've been admiring the work of the late Phil Hartsfeld for a couple of years now. I would like to try to make a couple of knives like his and was looking for some information/opinions from owners/users of his blades. The bevel side is almost always shown in pictures. What does the back look like? Is there a microbevel, hollow relief grind, true chisel grind (lapped on the same finishing stone as the front bevel), a full secondary bevel, or other? Any approximations to the angle of the bevels? Did he use just one bevel, or change to suit the use? I know he made his knives from A2. I have some A2, and also just aquired some M2 from a fellow member here. I've used M2 in a couple of knives before, and like it a lot. I'd like to make a small edc type blade, and a larger fighter style. All comments appreciated.
 
If I am not mistaken, Phill (Phil is his son that carries on the late Phill's legacy) made edges in either chisel grind or V grind, neither of which had secondary bevels. I suppose if you really wanted to, you could say Phill used scandi grinds since all a scani grind is - someone correct me if I'm wrong - is a V grind to zero edge. As far as angles are concerned, that information I don't know. There are other people with more information on Phill on these boards that will probably chime in sooner or later.

I commissioned a knife that I designed from Pohan Leu. Leu's work very closely resembles Phill's. Leu actually got to meet Phill a few times before he passed away. I suspect some of his knowledge was imparted on Leu. Coincidentally, Leu also uses mostly chisel and V grinds without secondary bevels.

Here is my commissioned piece in 3/16 thick A2 taken to 62.5 HRC:
harkanto1.jpg


Here is a Hartsfield knife. Notice how similar the "working" finishes are. I believe that's what Phill used to call the rough textured finish of his knives. Leu also uses this on his knives.
hartsfield.jpg


Another Hartsfield. Chisel ground this time. Notice the "swedge," a design element I replicated on my custom knife:
P1010018.jpg


Chisel ground Pohan Leu:
IMG_1354.JPG


I could post more pictures of both makers' works, but they are a simple google search away. One thing I'd like to add in closing is that I'm happy people like Pohan Leu carry on Hartsfield's legacy. Phil continues his tradition as well of course. These knives are simple, but in this simplicity comes elegance. These are working men's knives. There is no polished satin finish, no secondary bevels taken down with the smallest of micron pastes, just a knife that is sharp that will serve the owner well.
 
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I've probably asked about this before, but I can't remember. My interest comes and gos. Right now I know I have some suitable steel and the itch to try it. We'll see what happens Sunday. I do have my own version of the handle wrap.
 
The way I do it is grind the bevel till it forms a very light burr (after heat treat) and then buff it off using a 400 grit cutting compound that is applied very lightly to a 10" cotton wheel.

On a chisel grind, the back should appear FLAT with no secondary bevels or hollowgrinds or any of the above. That is how a Hartsfield was done but I have seen some that appeared to have a very small convex edge as well on the chisel grinds but the ones i have seen by PHILL SR. were more or less a scandi V grind with no secondary bevel and no convex edge.

This was done by standing behind the buffer and buffing on the top almost of the wheel with the wheel turning away from the user with the edge going in the direction of the turning wheel otherwise the blade would cut into the wheel and the blade thrown out of your hand. (DON'T TRY THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH BUFFERS) as you can seriously injure yourself. Using a buffer is the only way to make the blade appear that it has no marks like you would get with a stone.

Just because it's A2 tool steel doesn't mean it's going to be like a Hartsfield A2 tool steel blade. They (Him and his son) had a special way of heat treating or tempering or something that allowed the air hardening steel to acquire a harder edge than the back which only varied about 1 point on the RC scale but enough to form an edge hardened line or as most people call a hamon, but isn't of a true hamon you would find on a japanese sword or blade. But it still looks pretty incredible!

look here:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Phil-Hartsfield-Knives/214933191874027?sk=photos

I've been admiring the work of the late Phil Hartsfeld for a couple of years now. I would like to try to make a couple of knives like his and was looking for some information/opinions from owners/users of his blades. The bevel side is almost always shown in pictures. What does the back look like? Is there a microbevel, hollow relief grind, true chisel grind (lapped on the same finishing stone as the front bevel), a full secondary bevel, or other? Any approximations to the angle of the bevels? Did he use just one bevel, or change to suit the use? I know he made his knives from A2. I have some A2, and also just aquired some M2 from a fellow member here. I've used M2 in a couple of knives before, and like it a lot. I'd like to make a small edc type blade, and a larger fighter style. All comments appreciated.
 
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