Harvesting one tree .

K

Kevin the grey

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Aug 26, 2005
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I will proabably harvesting one ash tree this winter . I was going to wait until I had more experience as Its a much bigger project than I have ever accomplished . It will be to make bow staves for the most part . The most efficient size is an eight inch diameter tree . This will proabably be a 30 to 40 foot tree . This allows the most bow staves with the least waste .

I will try to do it this fall as I may lose access to this land come spring . Can someone go over with me the safest way to use hand tools , Hatchet proabably to take it down ? .
 
You would need a heavy feling axe to chop a tree like this, I would recommend a chainsaw with a 18" bar. ALWAYS cut on opposite side of natural leaning side of tree if their is no lean to tree make sure to use wedges
to make sure tree falls away from you . please remember that a tree this size
40' is going to be as heavy as a tank especially since its hard wood. Please be careful.
 
No chainsaw . Proabably fiskars 14 inch hatchet . If tree is leaning I can,t use it . It makes it much harder to make bows . I have a hard enough time as it is .
 
Be aware of other trees around it. If it's that tall and straight, there probably are some other trees around it - the ash has been growing up straight looking for sunlight under the canopy. Other trees will hang it up and keep it from falling. As you try to wrestle it loose, it might bind your axe or chainsaw blade or jump off the stump onto your foot.
 
Find yourself a local old timer who has felled trees before to not only explain, but to help you. Many things can go wrong and end in tragedy, even with a small tree like that. Logging is a dangerous occuation even for experienced loggers. No one can adequately explain to you over the internet how to do it safely. Just my opinion,

Codger
 
I agree with wayne, coldwood and codger. Why are you limiting yourself to a 14" hatchet?

My post initially included a quick and dirty on how to drop a tree, but considering the tools you intend to use, I deleted that thought. Be real careful.
 
Kevin the grey said:
I will proabably harvesting one ash tree this winter . I was going to wait until I had more experience as Its a much bigger project than I have ever accomplished . It will be to make bow staves for the most part . The most efficient size is an eight inch diameter tree . This will proabably be a 30 to 40 foot tree . This allows the most bow staves with the least waste .

I will try to do it this fall as I may lose access to this land come spring . Can someone go over with me the safest way to use hand tools , Hatchet proabably to take it down ? .
Click to expand...

Here are some instructions for a chainsaw which can be modified for using a hatchet:

Check the situation carefully before felling a tree. Take note of the longer branches and wind direction to determine how the tree will fall. Be sure you have a clear area around the tree in which to work, and an open pathway from the tree for an escape route. Remove dirt and stones from the trunk of the tree where the cut will be made.

Examine trees for loose, dead limbs before felling. If such limbs appear to be a hazard, remove them before felling the tree.
When felling a tree:

1. On larger trees make the notch cut on the side of the tree on which it is expected to fall. It should have a depth of approximately one-third the diameter of the tree. Make the lower notch cut first. This keeps the chain from binding and being pinched by the wedge of wood while the notch is made.
2. Make the felling or back cut at least 2 inches higher than the horizontal notching cut. The felling cut should be kept parallel with the horizontal notching cut. Cut it so that wood fibers are left to act as a hinge, keeping the tree from twisting and falling in the wrong direction.
3. The tree will begin to fall as the felling cut approaches the hinge fibers. Move to a safe spot at a 45° angle away from the line of fall.
4. Do not cut through the hinge fibers. The tree could fall in any direction. -- maybe in the direction in which you are retreating.

I spent a lot of my childhood in the woods cutting and hauling firewood. All the men took their time before felling a tree. There was a lot of time just standing around discussing a tree, weighing opinions about what would happen, before anyone cranked up a chainsaw. In other words, felling a tree was never taken lightly and was always given its due consideration.

Ideally, take someone experienced at felling trees with you. Otherwise, give it plenty of thought.
 
You may want to rethink your tree selection. If the stand you are selecting from upper canopy is of the same height as the ash, it is probably a healthy tree recieving adequate sunlight and thus grew more rapidly than say an understory tree of the same species.

Harvesting a SUPRESSED tree from the understory will be both a benefit to the environment and your bow. You do the environment a favor by removing a tree that will grow slow and have a higher potential for disease and/or insects, thus making the whole stand healthier. AND, because the growth of the supressed tree was slower, you end up with tighter growth rings and thus a stronger bow. Fast growing healthy tree = weaker wood. Funny how nature works for the benefit of all. ;)
 
Remember, you are talking about cutting an 8-inch tree. For an ash, that's a lot of weight.
 
Thanks guys all good advice . Quiet bear that is good experience talking there . Unfortunately all the ash seems to be about the same size . The smaller trees between them are another type . I,ll check around for a different stand of ash and check again .

Another good thing about this stand are all shoots sticking up that are great for arrows .
 
Borrow a buddy and his saw. Bet him in a match with your .22, if you win, he helps you with the tree.

On my buddys land we always use the chainsaw + Ford explorer method...I know that makes most of you reasonable people cry. But when its hung up in other trees...you can use a long chain to keep yourself (and the truck) far away from anything dropping out of the canopy. Its very scarey to have to walk up and push back and forth on the tree by hand.
 
No I can,t use a chainsaw where I am . Its next to a manufacturer who we have an agreement witnhabout loud noises . They let us use the land for free so its not a biggie .
 
akennedy73 said:
All the men took their time before felling a tree. There was a lot of time just standing around discussing a tree, weighing opinions about what would happen, before anyone cranked up a chainsaw. In other words, felling a tree was never taken lightly and was always given its due consideration.
Click to expand...

I generally cut 10-15 truckloads of wood a year with an axe, you scout the overheads, check the trunk for density and then cut accordingly. You really don't have the time to spend minutes on each tree of that size. Unless the tree has a heavy lean and you are trying to prevent it from splitting up the trunk, or want to make it fall against the lean it is pretty straightforward.

The main problems are cutting too far so the tree falls while you are next to it, or not cutting deep enough so people end up actually having to push the tree over which isn't a good idea and generally you use wedges though I have never seen anyone locally use them. Having the wrong axe is also a common problem, wrong size, improper body placement, wrong grind, the blade glances and hits the user.

Eight inches is easily taken with a properly ground 14" hatchet in regards to time/effort but you are going to end up quite close to the tree before it falls. I'd simply use a swede saw for the undercut and back cut which will not only be faster but also keep you much further from the tree.

-Cliff
 
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