Has anybody used this edge finishing machine ?

Hickory n steel · Nov 11, 2023

I'm starting to gradually upgrade my tools to hopefully improve my work and one of the things I'd really like to get better at is finishing edges.
I came across this inexpensive burnishing machine that can be had for $100 on Ebay and it looks nearly identical to the one Tandy offers for $200.

is there any reason to avoid this ?
The only real concern I have is the abrasives, I don't know how the sandpaper ( I don't think they're drums ) is attached or where I'd get more when I need it.

Robber58 · Nov 12, 2023

I have an older Tandy version and I wish I didn't. It is not well made and vibrates badly, making clean edges almost impossible. Over priced and under performs. IMHO.
Randy

Hickory n steel · Nov 12, 2023

Robber58 said:
I have an older Tandy version and I wish I didn't. It is not well made and vibrates badly, making clean edges almost impossible. Over priced and under performs. IMHO.
Randy

Is it red ?
I looked this one up and found some good reviews on YouTube, reviews it sounded fine didn't seem to vibrate too much and good results were achieved.

maybe there's inconsistencies in QC or they have improved them over time or something, I'll look into it some more.

Robber58 · Nov 12, 2023

Not red. Have had it for about 3 to 4 years. The issue with vibration is due to the method used to attach the motor to the tools. It is just not possible to get them concentric to the motor shaft, at least on mine. Can't speak to new ones but they certainly look the same. I can't say it does not work at all but does not give me the results I was hoping to achieve. I think I should have saved my money and put it toward the Cobra machine. I have tried one and they are very nice.
Randy

Hickory n steel · Nov 12, 2023

Robber58 said:
Not red. Have had it for about 3 to 4 years. The issue with vibration is due to the method used to attach the motor to the tools. It is just not possible to get them concentric to the motor shaft, at least on mine. Can't speak to new ones but they certainly look the same. I can't say it does not work at all but does not give me the results I was hoping to achieve. I think I should have saved my money and put it toward the Cobra machine. I have tried one and they are very nice.
Randy

With the shafts which have a machined flat for the set screws to lock them on ?

I'm just a hobbyist who makes my own sheaths out of necessity because I'm lefty, and I don't need any professional quality equipment.
I'm only wanting the sheaths I make to look a little better, and to make the process more enjoyable by reducing the effort and time envolved.
I only came across these looking for an inexpensive drum attachment for my bench grinder which I couldn't find, I wasn't necessary looking for a powered burnisher but actually can't find my burnishing stick right now and figured having one might not be a bad thing.

Robber58 · Nov 13, 2023

The shafts do have a flat. I don't believe the coupling glued into the burnisher is straight (with 2 different adaptors I have tried). I have the tools and means to remove them, rebore and remount which would probably solve much of the issue. However, I don't have the motivation. My answer was to get a really nice drill mounted arbor (https://www.proedgeburnishers.com/drill-burnishers.html) that works very well for my needs. They also make one that can be mounted to a motor shaft (https://www.proedgeburnishers.com/motor-burnishers.html). I believe they also make to arbors that are used on the Cobra machine. I use my belt grinder with dedicated leather belts for cleaning up edges.
Randy

Simplejack · Nov 14, 2023

Hickory n steel said:
With the shafts which have a machined flat for the set screws to lock them on ?

I'm just a hobbyist who makes my own sheaths out of necessity because I'm lefty, and I don't need any professional quality equipment.
I'm only wanting the sheaths I make to look a little better, and to make the process more enjoyable by reducing the effort and time envolved.
I only came across these looking for an inexpensive drum attachment for my bench grinder which I couldn't find, I wasn't necessary looking for a powered burnisher but actually can't find my burnishing stick right now and figured having one might not be a bad thing.

If you don't make many sheaths use an old belt sander thats worn out to sand down your welt. Get a small bottle of Martin's mix edge solution. Apply a healthy amount to the welt and where you edged. Then rub it firmly with some canvas or an old worn out cathart. And you'll have a nice looking edge in about 2 minutes of work, counting the sanding. Do light passes on the sander you can burn your welt, then your SOL.

Horsewright · Nov 14, 2023

Dampen the welt first and then sand. Less likely to burn. Resanding damp on burnt spots can fix er up pretty good too.

Hickory n steel · Nov 14, 2023

Simplejack said:
If you don't make many sheaths use an old belt sander thats worn out to sand down your welt. Get a small bottle of Martin's mix edge solution. Apply a healthy amount to the welt and where you edged. Then rub it firmly with some canvas or an old worn out cathart. And you'll have a nice looking edge in about 2 minutes of work, counting the sanding. Do light passes on the sander you can burn your welt, then your SOL.

I have a 1×30, but one reason I was wanting a drum sander is because I'm planning to eventually attempt my 2nd and 3rd boot resoles.
My belt sander just won't do for that because there's no way to go around the entire edge of the outsole midsole and welt without touching the upper anywhere, especially in the waist of the boot.

I will definitely take your suggestions for edge finishing, but am still going be looking for some kind of drum sanding capability.