Thanks Guys.
As a few of you might remember with that pink ivory and stabilization thread, I'm a firm believer in fresh sharp belts. I went from new 50, not 80, to 80, 120, 320 and 600 grits, pressing lightly and turning often. It's not heat build-up. I've always taken my best wood blocks and finish them A to Z including Fix-It and Renaissance wax (to observe quality and color retention, mostly to see what I really have). I'm refering to 200 - 300 5" and 6" x 1 1/2" blocks of coco. I definately got the same final shade of color as the fresh cut end grain (new saw too).
Bob, I will try that Sealacell to keep the coco from turning dark over time.
Jens, I'll also try the light and air procedure. (real nice knife on your site)
Also thanks Phil and Nick.
The thing that puzzles me is why on the fresh cut end of every one (same supplier and shipment) have a 1/16" rim of orange around the purple/cream interior. It sure looks like the exterior has been dyed.
One thing I didn't mention, this stuff was from a very large coco importer with a fresh monthly supply from Western Mexico. (I've ordered every month for a year, great person) But this time I asked for some product bordering the sapwood near the outside edge. I like the occasional multiple colored layers you frequently find there. That doesn't explain the thin 1/16" rim of red-orange on the outside.
Tom, I know oxidation changes exotic wood like pink ivory (brown) and especially cocobolo (turns darker). But these blocks changed from orange and black figure to purple/cream and black figure right before my eyes in less than a minute as I sanded deeper. I'm sure it's not oxidation. If I had pics, it would be easier explaining. BTW, your piece of curly Koa is still one of my favorites.
I sure would appreciate any additional input from any of you...I'm really baffled.
Thanks again.
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Joe
If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving isn't for you.