I've got some well used lockbacks coming up on 40 years old that still work and reilably function much as they did when I first bought them. Liner locks by the very design of the locktype and how it self adjusts can seem to start to accelerate wear on the contact of the lock as they are used. Its not uncommon to see these with very little lock coming out to secure the blade when bought only to see them wear in rather quickly and eventually hit a 'sweet spot' which they tend to stay at for some time. How long it takes for a liner lock to wear past that sweet spot seems related to how its used, the wear resistance of the lock material, thickness of the lock contact, how much of the lock face is in contact with the blade, hardness and how the stresses applied to the lock over time took their toll, and the angle of the lock contact among other things. Short sharp sudden shocks (read-spine whacks) can accelerate the wear factor if repeated over time by habit or if they are excessive in force. Indenting and other fractures in the form of lines, or chunks missing from the lock face can be evidence of this kind of abuse. Now of course you can also get this with lockback designs and I have seen this in those as well when they are abused.
Overall though the lockback seems to be longer lived between the two in my opinion based on what I've seen. Lockbacks can show signs of wear or problems though. For example, in marine environments or on corrosive job related uses around acids and other things like that it can accelerate or weaken the lock spring system causing the springs to break or at least weaken, or in extreme cases the tang can wear down on the blade to where its rouned off and when this happens the blade point no longer stays put down in the body of the scales and can peek up by gravity. At this point its not safe in daily carry if it can catch your fingers or clothing when in the pocket. So when the tip starts protruding out to allow the point to catch it may be time to consider retirement for the end line user. Of course other adjustments can be made to counter this usually by a slight adjustment to either the profile of the blade or the by a minor adjustment to the tang by either taking off more to make the blade seat deeper or by adding metal to it by a cutler technique so it snaps shut again and is 'squared up some' but the latter is dependent on tolerances. If you take off too much tang the lockbar drops up inside the scales and is no longer flush with the liners when closed. If you heat the blade tang too much to add some metal there and reshape it, it can lead to heat treat issues. Taking off too much tang by a novice can also lead to allowing the sharpened apex of the blade edge to rest on the spring when the blade is closed or worse slam shut on it dinging your edge so its something only someone with at least a little experience should mess with usually.
In normal uses I'd say both designs can last a lifetime and even end up being a handmedown lasting to the next generation if they are taken care of properly. Lastly, for what its worth, in my shop I see a lot more liner locks for wear related issues than lockbacks. Liner locks are sent in to me quite often for overtravel, or improper functions such as vertical play developing or blade rocking problems than any other lock type out there come to think of it. It could be argued as not unexpected when you consider there are probably far more of the liner locking type folders out there in use than any other lock type made so it only stands to reason I guess that you would probably see it more often if the majority. However, there are a lot of lockbacks out there also. From my standpoint the lockback just doesn't seem to give folks as much trouble based on my experience but I do see those now and again also.
STR