has anyone removed bt2 from m-2 steel benchmade?

shootist16

shootist16

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I posted a topic about whether or not people still liked their m-2 AFCK. Some people responded that they would remove the coating when it got looking bad. Has anyone done this? How easy is it for M-2 to rust in comparison to other steels? Also what do you remove it with and how does it look? I just ordered a m-2 AFCK. I am not crazy about coatings and could possibly be interested in removing the bt2 when it gets scratched up real bad.

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Dennis Bible
 
Benchmade claims the BT2 still protects the blade when worn off. They claim it penetrates somehow. If you buffed it off, I don't see how it could still be there. Ask over at the Benchmade forum. www.benchmade.com
 
I took the coating off of my AFCK. I used 220 grit SC paper with water backed by a hardwood block. The blades are very rough compared to the finish on the uncoated models. It looks like they ground them, gave a quick blast, then coated them. From the amount of corrosion on the edge of the knife.. M2 isnt as prone to rust as regular carbon steels.. but it will form a patina very easily... IE: no saltwater....lol.
 
Shootist16
I removed the BT2 off of my Axis blade useing my buffer and a course compound.It came off pretty easily.The resulting finnish is dull grey.It looks like it was bead blasted so the BT2 penetrates the surface therfore still protecting and makeing BM's claim.I believe that buffing off the coating should leave you with a more protected blade rather than sanding.I think that sanding could scratch the blade too deaply causing BM's penatrated coating to be removed.
Of course my blade is ATS so I don't know how well M2 will still be protected.I would like to know the results if you decide to do it.Thanks
scott w
 
When paint wears off rather than flaking off there is a point in the wear process when it looks like it's worn off completely but there's still a bit of paint left in scratches or pits in the metal, and that provides some protection since moisture collects in pits and scratches and that's where corrosion usually starts.

So, in a sense it does penetrate the surface, insofar as pits and scratches penetrate the surface, and it does continue to have some protective effect for a brief period after it appears to be worn away completely but isn't quite yet. It's one of those advertising claims that are not quite outright lies.



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-Cougar Allen :{)
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This post is not merely the author's opinions; it is the trrrrrruth. This post is intended to cause dissension and unrest and upset people, and ultimately drive them mad. Please do not misinterpret my intentions in posting this.
 
You might try acetone or a different solvent. That way you don't have added wear on the blade from sanding or buffing and it will keep the bead blast finish underneath.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
Acetone doesn't touch the bake-on paints and neither does Zip-Strip. I don't think any solvent can dissolve it -- nothing that wouldn't dissolve the steel too. Use fine-grit waterproof silicon carbide paper.
Doing it with a Dremel won't get you any more than an honorable mention in the Most Stupid Use of a Dremel Tool competition ... it's been done before ... you have to be really creatively stupid to place high in that competition these days.




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-Cougar Allen :{)
--------------------------------------
This post is not merely the author's opinions; it is the trrrrrruth. This post is intended to cause dissension and unrest and upset people, and ultimately drive them mad. Please do not misinterpret my intentions in posting this.
 
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