Has anyone tried to sharpen their Triceratops yet?

Boss1911

Boss1911

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What have you found to work well on this complicated blade?
I'm thinking about touching it up lightly with the sandpaper and mousepad technique, not enough to convex it just polish it a bit. I'll probably try my Sharpmaker first, I think it a little more forgiving of slips and mistakes.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
If it were ME......

I'd just go at it with my 1x30. I'm pretty brave though.

In all other circumstances I would recommend phone book and sandpaper.

just my opinion
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I'm not that brave. My 1x30 is limited to my Beckers. My KO Work Sharp w/blade grinder has done some nice work on my D-Guard BM...

I'm not looking for a major change on this one just going to make it a little bit slicier...
 
Boss1911 said:
I'm not that brave. My 1x30 is limited to my Beckers. My KO Work Sharp w/blade grinder has done some nice work on my D-Guard BM...

I'm not looking for a major change on this one just going to make it a little bit slicier...
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yeah. I've used my 1x30 to simply knock the shoulder of my busse blades back. if you have a sharpie and some steady hands you will do fine.

rubbing alcohol for after to get the sharpie off.
 
I only have 4 methods at my disposal:
Sandpaper on mousepad, whetstones, Wicked Edge, or Sharp Maker. I think the Sharp Maker might be my starting choice here.
Of course, all theoretical at this point. Haven’t used them yet, other than admiring!
 
I'm going to try the Wicked Edge one day. But it's going to be way down on my list of things that need to be done.
 
tokerblue said:
I'm going to try the Wicked Edge one day. But it's going to be way down on my list of things that need to be done.
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Wicked isn't come to BST so they gave out a code.

The team that handles the bulk of our sales and transportation for the show has tested positive for Covid. We want to keep our community safe and thus have made the decision not to attend the show. We are very sorry for any inconvenience this may cause you and we’ll miss seeing you!
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We look forward to seeing you later this year at Blade Show in Atlanta!​

 
TENTEX said:
Wicked isn't come to BST so they gave out a code.
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I should have clarified. I have the Wicked Edge already. I meant that I'm going to try and sharpen the Triceratops on it one day. 😜

But now that you posted the code, I may go get some more stones. I'm also liking the upgraded arms on the newer models. I'm still using the original model and the arms are finicky to tighten.
 
tokerblue said:
I should have clarified. I have the Wicked Edge already. I meant that I'm going to try and sharpen the Triceratops on it one day. 😜

But now that you posted the code, I may go get some more stones. I'm also liking the upgraded arms on the newer models. I'm still using the original model and the arms are finicky to tighten.
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New arms are 10X better!
 
For my WE I bought the extra long cross rod bracket for doing hatchets and really wide blades. I also added the new style rotor arms and ditched the old blue link type arms. The new ball joints work much nicer. I also added longer rods for sharpening as I have sharpened my AK and Butaniku.

Matching the factory angles is really tough. The tip angle on the butaniku was very obtuse for mine. I also sharpened a War Boar and it was tough, partially due to the recurve, but also because the grind was asymmetrical, so you eaither had to keep it asymmetric or doing a lot of reprofiling.

Recurve blades are tricky.
 
Boss1911 said:
What have you found to work well on this complicated blade?
I'm thinking about touching it up lightly with the sandpaper and mousepad technique, not enough to convex it just polish it a bit. I'll probably try my Sharpmaker first, I think it a little more forgiving of slips and mistakes.
Click to expand...
I got hair shaving results on both edges using ceramic rods of varying grits. It has a slight mirror to it. All in all... much easier to sharpen than I originally thought it would be.

Edit: Not on a rig of any type either. I only hand sharpen.
 
I usually use a 75 year old Norton oil stone that was gifted to me by my mother-in-law. Never enough oil for that dang thing. Really need to upgrade with the knives I rock. Ridiculous.
 
rover said:
I usually use a 75 year old Norton oil stone that was gifted to me by my mother-in-law. Never enough oil for that dang thing. Really need to upgrade with the knives I rock. Ridiculous.
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If its a Norton India stone, don't knock it until you watch a video, I think its called "Sharpening a Knife with Jerry Fisk".
 
rover said:
I usually use a 75 year old Norton oil stone that was gifted to me by my mother-in-law. Never enough oil for that dang thing. Really need to upgrade with the knives I rock. Ridiculous.
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I'm the last few years I went on a spree of buying stones of every type. I personally think once you learn to hand sharpen really well.. you can do it with just about anything. That being said a $500 vitrified diamond stone is obviously going to work better in general.. but tbh my "ancient" norton/bear oil stones will turn blades into lasers too.. just takes longer is all.
https://imgur.com/a/qVajMtQ
 
Boss1911 said:
If its a Norton India stone, don't knock it until you watch a video, I think its called "Sharpening a Knife with Jerry Fisk".
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I love watching Mr. FISK do his thing. Very knowledgeable about how to keep an angle while hand sharpening. I mean.. it's not new info.. but it's surely becoming forgotten knowledge with each passing day. More and more people fall back on sharpening jigs and complicated setups nowadays.
 
rover said:
Thanks for the Fisk link! Love that Norton! Turned a few knives into absolute razors despite my skill.
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Hell yeah! Oh btw! Try using window cleaner instead of water or oil (I still use all three from time to time.. depends on how im feeling that day). You might like it better. It kind of keeps everything clean.. prevents build up pretty well, and honestly it has kind of an oily texture to it as well. Just easier to clean off. Also a lot easier to apply it to your stone considering you don't have to go get a bucket full of water to soak with or ruin your pants with oil possibly. I've found it works better on "splash and go" type stones though. It loves ceramics.

On the subject of you wanting new stones.. I would check out spydercos ceramic bench stone stones (there are 3 of them that are kind of a set but sold separately) .. I think they're 2" x 8" and come with some nice hard plastic cases. You don't even have to put anything on them.. they work great dry.. but they LOVE window cleaner (except the medium stone.. it drinks it right up) and at the end of the day if you bought all three (medium, fine, ultra fine) you might get set back a couple hundred bucks.

Sorry for the novel lol
 
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