Has anyone used the Wolverine Puukko

I'm interested in this also.

Any idea how this differs from the heat treatment they use in the top of the line Tommi models? Did they find a way to more efficiently perform the same treatment or is this something else?

A comparison with the harder Roselli steel (UHC or whatever it's called not the quite expensive "wootz") would be very nice also.
 
Makes you wonder how it will behave in sharpening. I sharpen my Pukko by laying the full 1/4" bevel flat on the stone, a common method. How would this method work with a change in hardness between edge and end of bevel (i.e. the tempering line)?
 
The change in hardness improves sharpening in that respect as you are only honing a thin piece of hard metal not the full width. I suspected at first that it might cause an uneven grinding due to the quicker abrasion of the softer metal, but have not found this to be the case. It is probably due to the concentration of force near the edge when honing, if you leaned more into the upper part of the bevel it might get lop sided.

The UHC blades I would be interested in feedback as well. I have asked around and got very limited feedback, however what feedback I did get was not positive. Yes they appeared to hold an edge well, but not nearly as what would be expected given the hardness levels proposed. Sharpening a very hard edge in that manner I would also not think is very efficient.

-Cliff
 
Some top-of-the-line sushi and sashimi knives are not laminated, but made of a single piece of very hard white or blue steel. However, the vendors often admit that they are more difficult to sharpen and suitable for "experts" or "professionals".
 
I do not have this knife but have the UHC steel carpenter.
I have only positive things to say about this steel. I do not find it harder to sharpen than a similar edge in a modern stainless. Actually a little easier since it is not so prone to shape a wire edge.
 
How does it compare to the regular Kellam puukkos in regards to edge retention. Have you seen any problems with durability due to the high hardness?

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
How does it compare to the regular Kellam puukkos in regards to edge retention. Have you seen any problems with durability due to the high hardness?

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Hello Cliff
My friend has a regular Kellam and i did some simple tests and the UHC keeps the edge for approx. 30% more cuts.
I have not done any tough jobs with the carpenter but probably it is a little brittle with this sharp edge and hard steel.
I consider it a slicer.

/Martin
 
bttt.

cliff did you ever get a wolverine? i've seen the ads. for the new wolf line and i like the looks but want to know more before i buy.

as a side note how do these knives hold up when doing tough jobs like splitting with batons? i own a teho tommi but i am not going to do anything stupid with it for obvious reasons.
 
For $15 you may buy blade here:

http://www.brisa.fi/lauript.html

It is only Laury making them in Finland, I am almost sure this is same blades. According to composition from brisa.fi I found out that this is UHB17Va steel by Uddeholm very close to O1 - so PT is possible. However they may change steel supplier and old analyses may not work anymore.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Thanks for the links. At a high hardness even the tougher carbon steels will start being very brittle in that you can't bend them or impact them. Puukkos, often since they are cheap, get used for really hard work, for that type of work you are better off with the softer forged ones. However I have a number of very hard blades 63+ hrc which while I would call them brittle still work very well for light cutting where you don't twist the blades, pound on them or pry with them.

-Cliff
 
The tang does not come through the end of the handle. It looks like an epoxy
set, shorter tang then the standard model.

Be well
Floyd
 
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