Has anyone used this compound as a finish compound?

I use the pink scratchless (from a different source) on my felt strop on my belt sander as my finishing step regardless of which belt I came off of last... I love it! I have noticed that it doesn't really do much of anything to the stainless steels (like s30v) but on certain steels it really shines it up.
 
My advice... Dont buy mystery compound of an unknown abrasive type , particle size and concentration.
 
SC_Dave said:
Sound advise. Can you recommend a brand/type? Thanks
David
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What steel(s) are you wanting to finish, and to what finish level (toothy/satin/mirror/etc)?

The vendor description of the pink 'scratchless' compound sort of sounds like it's geared mainly to softer materials (brass, nickel, wood, bone), and maybe 'OK' for some steels (hardness & type is a mystery). Putting two and two together, if the compound is actually 'scratchless' on such soft materials as described, consider how ineffective it would likely be for refining hardened steel (can't hone or sharpen without actually 'scratching' the steel). I usually shy away from compounds described like this, and instead look for those known (with certainty) for working on hardened steel, or at least primarily described for polishing stainless steel.

For most stainless cutlery steels up through something like D2 or ZDP-189, any of the popular AlOx-based polishing compounds work pretty darn well, such as Simichrome, Flitz, Mother's Mag and at least some of the stick-type compounds like Ryobi white, Flexcut Gold. I've lately been tinkering with some Sears #2 (grey AlOx) compound that seems to work almost as well as my favorite (Ryobi white rouge), maybe to just slightly less-polished finish (very slight difference). For steels with high vanadium content, like S30V and beyond, diamond or CBN compounds would likely be best.


David
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
What steel(s) are you wanting to finish, and to what finish level (toothy/satin/mirror/etc)?

The vendor description of the pink 'scratchless' compound sort of sounds like it's geared mainly to softer materials (brass, nickel, wood, bone), and maybe 'OK' for some steels (hardness & type is a mystery). Putting two and two together, if the compound is actually 'scratchless' on such soft materials as described, consider how ineffective it would likely be for refining hardened steel (can't hone or sharpen without actually 'scratching' the steel). I usually shy away from compounds described like this, and instead look for those known (with certainty) for working on hardened steel, or at least primarily described for polishing stainless steel.

For most stainless cutlery steels up through something like D2 or ZDP-189, any of the popular AlOx-based polishing compounds work pretty darn well, such as Simichrome, Flitz, Mother's Mag and at least some of the stick-type compounds like Ryobi white, Flexcut Gold. I've lately been tinkering with some Sears #2 (grey AlOx) compound that seems to work almost as well as my favorite (Ryobi white rouge), maybe to just slightly less-polished finish (very slight difference). For steels with high vanadium content, like S30V and beyond, diamond or CBN compounds would likely be best.


David
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Mostly 154CM, S30V and A1 Toothy - Satin

Not to change the subject of my on post but when we talk about toothy, is this achieved by less fine finishing such as EEF stones/Plates and less stropping David?

David
 
SC_Dave said:
Mostly 154CM, S30V and A1 Toothy - Satin

Not to change the subject of my on post but when we talk about toothy, is this achieved by less fine finishing such as EEF stones/Plates and less stropping David?

David
Click to expand...

To varying degrees, yes. One person's 'toothy edge' might be a DMT Coarse; another's might be a 'Fine' or finer than that, but still with some noticeable bite. Most of the tooth from the stones would be saved during stropping, either by minimizing strokes or using a somewhat less aggressive compound; just enough to clean up the burrs and loose tatters left from the stones.

Of the three steels you mentioned, I'd like diamond for the S30V, an AlOx compound for the 154CM (I've already liked the Ryobi white rouge for this steel, on a Benchmade folder of mine). I'm not finding any steel composition data for A1, but I'm assuming it's not too heavy in carbides (maybe some chromium carbides). If so, I'd think an AlOx compound or perhaps green would work for that.


David
 
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