Has or does anyone use a Etch-o-Matic etcher ?

flatblackcapo

flatblackcapo

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Mar 25, 2012
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I am looking for a etcher and I ran across the Etch-o-Matic etcher and their stencil maker. Can any of you folks give me your feedback on either or both of these products?
Thank you for your time.
 
I bought one and had good results. I still need to perfect the process though as I have had different results on different steels. I think I would have better results with professional stencils. The stencil paper you get with the kit seems to bleed through. Having said that maybe just buy the etcher and buy your stencils if they are all typical.
 
I had one briefly and did not get the results I was hoping for. Not sure if it was the stencils or the machine or both. So I bought a stamp which I get good results with but limited mark placement . So I ponied up the money for a Personalizer Plus and got some stencils from Tuss in New Bedford MA and received top notch service and my mark is crisp and clear and right from the get go. Learning curve was about two marks. No mater what I tried with the etch-o-matic nothing worked and caused me a lot of aggravation . Not saying don't get it but I was less than happy.
 
I like the etcher just fine. So far I've gotten good deep, dark marks on hardened Elmax, CPM-154, D2, CPM-3V and 52100, all using the same electrolyte that came with it. I'm using stencils from Ernie Grospitch (my logo) and USA knifemaker (steel type); I haven't tried making my own yet.
 
I used one for about three years with reasonable success until I picked up a Marking Methods cheaply. I think good stencils and the proper etchant are the key. I'm sure with saltwater and a DIY stencil, the etch-o-matic can make a crappy mark, but it won't be the etcher's fault.
 
Thank you all for your replies. Have any of you had problems etching with the Etch o matic on spaces like the ricasso or on the spine?
 
It's kind of a big unit relative to some of the other etchers that use a graphite block. Much easier to do the mark before you put the handle or guard on.
 
^ what Jason said. Whenever possible, etch your mark before assembly, but after HT and final finishing. :thumbup:
 
Just curious. If an etch goes poorly, how hard is it to remove? I get that steel type and finish are key, but would you compare it to a deep grind line?
 
I just removed one yesterday. The etch was a little crooked and not very deep. I started with 320 grit until it was very faint and finished with 400. Took about an hour and a half.
 
My main reason of considering the Etch-o Matic was getting the package deal and making my own stencils. Can anyone give me some feedback on that aspect of this product? Has anyone tried to use a higher quality stencil paper with the Etch o Matic stencil maker?
 
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