Has your lockback ever broke it's lock?

L

lerner

Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
125
I've owned 2 lockbacks before, both cheap no-names. They both broke in the same place - at the "tooth" or catch of the lock. It fractured off.

I'm looking for a new knife and wondering if this is prone in the Buck/Case/Kershaw "hunter" styles (clip-point, wood scales, brass bolsters), $40-$60 price range? Is $60 too low to expect the reliability/strength of a liner-lock, but in a lockback?
 
Depend's on what you were doing with the knife when it broke, can you describe the circumstances of their use at the moment of the lock breaking.
 
I have never broken a lock. However I realize that a folder is not a fixed blade and do not attempt to use it like it is. To me a folder is a fixed blade substitute. I love them but I respect the fact that you give up a bit of strength.
 
lerner said:
I've owned 2 lockbacks before, both cheap no-names. They both broke in the same place - at the "tooth" or catch of the lock. It fractured off.

I'm looking for a new knife and wondering if this is prone in the Buck/Case/Kershaw "hunter" styles (clip-point, wood scales, brass bolsters), $40-$60 price range? Is $60 too low to expect the reliability/strength of a liner-lock, but in a lockback?
Click to expand...

I've used $20 lockbacks to within an inch of their lives. If you gave me a price tag of X, the stronger lock tends to be a lockback for that price- easier to execute well cheaply.

The Buck 110 is about $30 and rock solid, for starters.
 
udtjim said:
I have never broken a lock. However I realize that a folder is not a fixed blade and do not attempt to use it like it is. To me a folder is a fixed blade substitute. I love them but I respect the fact that you give up a bit of strength.
Click to expand...

+1 on that one.:thumbup:
 
I brokie the lock bar on a new Spyderco Mariner years ago. Sal replaced it quickly with a new one. No further problems. Typical Spyderco. Class act all the way.
 
If you prefer the wood/brass traditional look then the buck 110 is hard to beat, most walmarts have them for about $32. You can check it out here. The buck's 420HC steel is very good but slightly outdated. If you don't mind the extra cost Cabela's offers a buck 110 in S30v for $68. you can check it out here. S30v is an very modern high quality blade steel and will stay sharp much longer than 420HC. I try to use all folding knives as if they were a slipjoint that could close at any time, its just safer that way. I never understood why people would actually place pressure on the back of a folder's blade anyway. you don't have to spend a bundle to get a very good quality knife. the 110 is legendary for its toughness, low cost, and quality. All of spyderco's lockback knives and their byrd line of low cost knives are also excellent lockback designs with very sturdy locks. You can get a G10 Cara Cara for under $30 if you want something with a more modern look to it.
 
Last edited:
Never actually broken a lockback. I did come across a lockback knife from a well regarded company that didn't lock very well. Took about the same amount of pressure to close as a Douk Douk. Took it back for replacement, and the replacement was exactly the same. Returned it and gave up on the brand.
 
I have never broken the lock on a Buck. But 20 some years ago I had the spring on my LB7 Schrade brake. They replaced the knife in about a week. I have wore out the liner lock on a Odyssey 186. It still works but has lots of blade play and the liner is touching the one on the other side. It was carried and used hard in construction every day for 6 1/2 years, now it gets to rest.
 
If the Buck 110 doesn't fit the bill then a Schrade USA made LB7 would do quite nicely.

I found three in an antique shop the other day, all brand new in the box with papers and leather sheathes for 43.00 each. I already have one but am thinking about going back and getting at least one more to put with the collection.


You can also find them on the bay. They are solid lockbacks and are some of my favorites. LB8s are nice too but a little harder to find.
 
Never broken any of my user lockbacks, and I use them hard. The only "quality" lockback that I've seen break was an older NRA badged Lakota lockback. It had a defective heat treat or bad steel is all I can think of, as instead of the lockbar breaking the tang where the lock rests in broke instead. Rest assured, a good lockback is one of the best and strongest locks in existence right now, don't let those cheap knives and occasional defects (even benchmade's axis lock has had a few duds) stop you from getting what you want.
 
I've broke and seen so many broken lock-backs I can't remember them all. Buck, Gerber, Schrade, G96, Case, Cold Steel - the list goes on.

Most looked okay, but the locks slipped - the knives were essentially slipjoints.

Cold Steel recently introduced an improved lockback design that allows the lockbar to do one function instead of two (removing the blade stop function should allow better locking geometry).
 
I've been using lockback knives since I got my first Buck 110 in the late 60s. None has ever broken or failed.
 
My first knife was a Buck 110 when I was 7 years old I believe. Still have it today. Never had a problem.

My dads first knife was also a Buck 110 back in the 60's, and the only damage done to that is the tip broke off, but he fixed it. (It was his doing, prying with a knife..)
 
I want to know what you were doing with a folder that broke the lock, even a relative cheapy.
 
I've noticed most of the locks broken on knives occured when the knife is levered during the cutting of stuff that many consider improper materials. For example, cutting steel pallet bands (the most recent Buck 110 failure I observed - my BM 710 survived for the rest of the unpacking, but the edge was shot).
 
65535 said:
I want to know what you were doing with a folder that broke the lock, even a relative cheapy.
Click to expand...
I don't think I was using them any differently than any other knife. I wasn't striking or otherwise abusing them. I figured they were just old and that the lockbar was just "stressed" from so many openings and closings.

This reminds me that I should mention I would prefer to open this new folder by "flicking" it, otherwise one-handed opening is a MUST. Seems flicking would be more stressfull to a lockback than to the linerlocks I'm used to.

You see I'm looking for a "stabby" type self-defense knife (hence my interest in the clip point), but the knife must look to cops like an "ordinary pocketknife" (MO state law wording). Applegate-Fairbairns and TiLites look too pointy.

If anyone can point out a traditionally-styled liner-lock (4 inch blade), this would solve alot.

You guys are great:)
 
You want a spyderco chinook then ;) *edit> it's a lockback mind you, but for any sort of stabby type things I'd much rather have a spyderco lockback than almost any linerlock in existence.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top