hatamoto **** up!!

D

DANTHEMAN123

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Mar 28, 2006
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i recently bought hatamoto by cold steel and whilst test cutting somecardboard attatched to a vice,i clippedthe vise and knicked the blade!!!!!!!!!

i was heart broken, so i bought a spyderco 'sharpmaker'. i managed to get rid of the small knick. the burr and the dent itself but now the blade is super dull even after going through all the methods- the rough corner the flat and the fine corner and flat.

do you think i should keep trying or send it to a professional?

i live in swansea ,wales .uk. can anyone reccomend a place or personto do this job for me. this is the first time i have ever sharpened a knife.

the spyderco workded wonders on my kitchen blades and another shitte knife i had lying about. maybe the fact that i took the whole knick out took the edge down too far, too thick.

any advice would be appreciated. worse is, that i just got a black sable today which is sharper than the hatamoto was originally.lol .

is maybe san mai steel hard to sharpen properly by hand?thanks
 
ive now seen that he lansky deluxe sharper i WAS gonna get does low angles. what really annoys me is that the guy at the place i bought the knives and sharpener . he not only told me that the spyderco was exactly what was needed for the hatamoto or black sable( not the lansky or crkt sharpeners). but, that i should only use the 40 degree angle never the 30 when cold steelsblades are at 22-25.

does anyone have any experience with the lansky delux,standard or pro kits. and of course would you advice going on with this plight?
 
have you tried the sharpy method of marking your edge, swiping it on the sharpmaker a few times and looking at what you are hitting?

i had a problem that sounds like what you are describing when i was trying to sharpen the chisel grind blade on my squirt p4 and i was only hitting the shoulder of the blade on one side, creating a burr from the sharpening on the other side. Felt dull as a door until i knocked off that shoulder and actually got to hitting the edge from both sides.
 
no i hadnt but i dont really want to touch it anymore incase i make it worse. anyway, the angle of the sharpmakers wrong.

when cold steel said that theyre blades are at a 22-25 angle what does that mean? how both?
 
If you use 40* on the Sharpmaker, it means 20* on each side. So if the edge Cold Steel puts on the Hatamoto is 23-25*, it would be like 50* on the Sharpmaker. Just sharpen on the 40* setting and you will be fine.
 
DANTHEMAN123 said:
no i hadnt but i dont really want to touch it anymore incase i make it worse. anyway, the angle of the sharpmakers wrong.

when cold steel said that theyre blades are at a 22-25 angle what does that mean? how both?
Click to expand...


the angle of the sharpmaker is actually a very good angle for a very sharp edge. the 40 degree setting on the sharpmaker gives an angle of 20 degrees on the edge, making it a more acute angle than the cold steel knife.
 
Chisel ground knives are ground on one side, you have not really harmed the knife by putting a 20 degree bevel on a knife which is ground slightly more obtuse, it will just take a while to sharpen on the Sharpmaker, could be 1-2 hours to ground off all the steel. If you intend to use the Sharpmaker then you are better off adding a slight relief grind to under 20 degrees so the Sharpmaker just runs a micro-bevel. You can freehand this relief grind with a coarse hone, it doesn't need to be accurate or precise.

-Cliff
 
I tried using a lansky style diamond sharpener on my Cold Steel zytel ti-lite with horrible results, whereas I get razor edges on cheaper knives. It could be the 440A which I hear is not the best for sharpening. Somehow they get their factory edges scary sharp. I dont even want to touch my Benchmade 42 w/ 154CM until I get a Sharpmaker, for some reason it didnt come very sharp which might be a good thing.
 
440A which is usually hardened fairly soft for a cutlery steel and it can be difficult to get a crisp edge, softer steels tend to burr really easy. Use Clark's deburring method.

-Cliff
 
its not chisel ground, the grinds on both sides. whats a relief grind. and i got someone to sharpen it for me. but i am trying to sharpen a pair of 'chronicles of riddick' knives with the lansky deluxe sharpener which came 'sharpened' with a grind done at very a high degree as well as very thick. alot of work with the extra coarse stone.what do you reckon?
 
A relief grind is just a rough shaping bevel you apply to increase cutting ability and ease of sharpening. Many knives come with really thick bevels, mainly because it allows sharpening with minimal metal removal so it saves time and wear on abrasives. On a lot of them a large file will be faster than a x-coarse hone for the relief grind if you have a vice to hold the knife in place.

-Cliff
 
Hi Dan, the Sharpmaker is the best sharpening system for the proficient knifeowner. There are systems that are easier to use, and honing a knife on a benchstone needs a highly qualified sharpener.
The Sharpmaker without a doubt will be able to sharpen your Hatamoto to hairpopping sharpness.
But you will need a little experience to get there.
I have been using the sharpmaker for a while now, and are becoming better and better each time i use it.

Watch the video/DVD that came with the sharpmaker carefully and do not apply too much pressure. Check the knife edge for foldover and keep the stones clean.
Remember that the pores of the stones get saturated with steel and you need to clean the stones every 50 strokes with soap and water (especially the white stones).
if you keep practicing the downward "slice" you will be able to get your hatamoto back to shaving sharp.
 
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