Hatchet edge geometry help

S.Alexander

S.Alexander

Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
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I posted this in the Bladesmith Q&A section, but I figured that I would post here as well due to the experience of the members in this subforum...


I am doing a small run of full tang hatchets, and I needed some guidance for the edge geometry. I will do some testing once they are heat treated, but I was looking for a starting point.

They are 1/4" 1075 steel. I will be aiming for 57-58 rockwell. They will be flat ground, with a convex secondary bevel

I would like to know what edge thickness I should use before sharpening? Does .04" sound right? With a 25 dps secondary bevel?
 
What is the intended use?

When you say full tang I assume these will be cut from flat stock 1/4" 1075. Seems like a good choice of steel for the application.

Axes like this generally fall into the tactical tomahawk category which generally make for very poor performing general use camp hatchets, thus why I ask the intended use.

For my axes I perfer a gentle convex edge with an angle between 15-20° I believe the term that is used is inclusive rather than per side. Obviously the angle at the edge itself is steeper. While your proposed grind seems similar I would argue that the flat bevel and flat sides would stick if used to chop or split wood. A full convex grind would help mitigate these issues to a point but it will never have the same profile as a conventional axe. If it's a tactical style axe used for breaching and so forth then I don't suppose it matters outside of being sharp and durable.
 
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Alex, I think that is correct for a hatchet. I put a 25 dps on my Estwing (maybe more) and removed much of the convex cheek up front and it became much better on limb work. I'll enjoy seeing it. DM
 
Thanks for the replies.

David I ended up finishing the edge at 25 dps. I chopped a little bit with it, but I still want to test it some more and make sure all the geometry is working well. I'll post up pics when I put a handle on it.

Shane
 
Since it's a solid stock and not directly intended for tactical applications, I would recommend doing a partial skeletonized handle or doing an "I-BEAM" grind across the neck to redistribute the weight away from the grip and into the head. For hawks in general some have a tendency to be body heavy, and that takes away from maneuverability and affects how long the tool remains comfortable in the hand, and not something ur trying to hold on to. Just my opinion tho. Can't wait to see pictures.
 
Estwing does an I-BEAM grind on their hatchet handle. Then finishes it with stacked leather. We'll enjoy looking at your work. DM
 
Thanks for the input guys. Here is what I ended up with on the first hatchet. Bevels were ground at 20 degrees inclusive, with the edge convexed at 25 dps. The handle was somewhat skeletonized, but I am sure I could have removed more material.



 
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