Hatchet ID? : YOU GUYS ROCK BTW.

LMGTFY

It's completely void of any distinguishing marks. But it's old enough to have convex cheeks even if they're a bit thin. Probably 1960s or early 70s. Most likely American but could be Scandinavian. They exported a lot of moderately priced axes back then. Should be a decent user.
 
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Square_peg said:
LMGTFY

It's completely void of any distinguishing marks. But it's old enough to have convex cheeks even if they're a bit thin. Probably 1960s or early 70s. Most likely American but could be Scandinavian. They exported a lot of moderately priced axes back then. Should be a decent user.
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Thank you!!
 
catspa said:
That’ll clean up nice.

Parker
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I'm hoping so! Random side question for you. I've heard of vinegar as being generally sacrilegious. Are you an advocate of a fine wire brush on a bench grinder with something like this? Or do you think there is a better method? I'm looking at selling some of my heads once I get them touched up and I'm soaking up as many opinions/knowledge as possible. Just wanting to maintain the integrity of my axe heads and maximize their value. :)
 
The bad thing about wire wheeling is that it’s too easy to remove all the patina and blast down to shiny bare steel (a look I dislike). Bench grinders spin at about 3400 rpm, and most wire wheel bristles are fairly stiff. I mounted a soft wheel on a 1725 rpm motor, which gives better results, but finding those parts took a while.

If you must wire wheel, first practice on some old rusty hinges or scrap to get a feel for how light to go, and keep the workpiece moving.

I don’t sell tools, but it seems tricky to maximize their value by trying to guess what an unknown buyer considers attractive. Best of luck.

Parker
 
I've used vinegar and a wire wheel, I prefer a wire wheel for looks. My modus operandi was a 4 inch angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment, but you could use a bench grinder or a wire brush attachment for a cordless drill.
 
It's all about rpms and material. It begs for a table with shading in the cells IDing the levels of what's relatively safe or not to hit, let's say, a Black Raven. Personally the rocks I throw at the black ravens around my house are pretty low rpms, and never one was worse for wear. OK, never hit one, and ok, never threw a rock at one. Ravens are really cool birds.
 
I also use a brass cup brush chucked up in my drill press. I've had great success with that and prefer it over a chemical soak.
 
catspa said:
Soft brass wheels would certainly make a difference.

I’m not saying don’t do it, just saying (in agreement with others) go slow, use a light touch, practice on some crap that it doesn’t matter if you ruin before you start in on your sale items.

Parker
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Your right, the old soft wrought iron bodied axes will go right down to shiny steel very easily. With the all steel axes it don’t much matter, they turn a dark color from the heat of the brush against them. This axe is a modern all steel axe.
 
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