Havasu Falls

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May 3, 2005
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I recently got married (the second time) and my wife and I decided to go to Havasu Falls on a hiking trip in the South-western area of the Grand Canyon for our honeymoon. Both of us are forty something and in fair shape. I am originally from the east and not too familiar with the desert climate.

I would like to post a few observations from a "novice to the desert" point of view. Along with some info on a great trip~!

I am very thankful that I listened to my savvy wife or it may have cost me dearly. She preached that we had to carry what I considered too much water...it wasn't. She was adimant that we wear big brimmed hats instead of baseball style caps. I was glad of that. She insisted that we use lots of sun block. I am glad we did.

We drove to the Hualapi Hill Top parking lot at night and slept in the back of the pickup. She suggested that we leave on the hike at 5:30am. The first mile or so is nothing but switchbacks that take you quickly down into the canyon. After that, it is mostly a path that goes through the canyons until you reach the village (8 miles from the parking lot). We arrived there at 9:30am. If we had left much later than 5:30am, we would have done lots of walking in the heat. As it was, we spent much of the time in the shade. Carry lots of water!!

Most of the hike was like walking in a deep gravel driveway, or along a very sandy beach. That was murder on the backs of my legs!

The village has a little diner. We ate there twice. The food was good and the prices were not as bad as one might expect in an area as remote as that. I found that the village people were not too friendly...Some say it is because they are shy. I think it is because they don't want tourists coming to ruin their peace. The falls are about two mile beyond the village. There is a camp ground with drinking water available.

There are four major falls in the area. The first you hike past is Navajo falls. It was my favorite because it was less turbulent. Havasu falls is next. It has a beautiful little beach and is easily accessable. After you hike through the campground you get to Mooney falls. In order to get to the falls, you have to decend on chains and pinions through tunnels and down the face of a rock cliff. It is very dangerous and scared the jeepers out of me. I noticed that there were few kids there and few older people. (My wife and I were two of the oldest there that day) I know that a lot of young guys will laugh at my saying that it is dangerous...but it is!! The guy that it was named after fell to his death there. I guess I have lost my spirit of adventure. Below Mooney falls is Beaver falls...which we did not reach.

On the hike back out, my wife insisted that we leave at 4:30am at the latest. I didn't see why, but after hiking out, I understand. Take lots of water!!! The last 500 yards or so got me to the point of thinking that I was not going to make it. But I did. And a local native was selling ice cold gatorade at the top for $5.00 a bottle...She got $5.00 from me.

I talked to two twenty something couples who had started the hike at noon...They told me that they almost didn't make it.

I saw two older couples (50s or 60s) starting the hike at 9:30am. That is too late in my opinion. They were wearing sun visors and carried a small bottle of water like they were on an afternoon visit in the mall. I hope they made it!

Hiking in the desert is certainly a lot less forgiving than going for a national park hike in the Appalachian mountains of the east. The desert will kill you and FAST! Sure you can die in the east, but it is not quite as quick in my opinion.

I have gained a new respect and love for the desert south-west.

I know I have left out lots of things, and I am sure that many of you will scoff that I think that the Havasu hike is difficult. I met lots of young couples that were plenty sore and beat up from the hike.I am not twenty something and I am sure that there are many out there that may read this in the same shape that I am in and may find some of this interesting or at least humorous. By the way...I am planning to go back next year!

Seikan1
 
Hey, I lived in Mesa about ten years ago, and while I never hiked the canyon, I have done some hiking/climbing in the superstition mountains in the summer and it will kill ya if you're not careful...took the family on a hike of 12 miles up to 10000 feet elevation or so to Aloha lake in desolation wilderness in Lake Tahoe region last summer, and it was up, up, up, up, all the way to the lake and the climbing and the elevation was a bear in only 80 degree heat....you have to respect mother nature.....I love and miss the desert
 
It's about 9:30 pm here in Tucson and about 100F. Great hiking weather...ha ha. I get done with my hikes by 9am at the latest this time of year. It was 110F today and I avoid the outdoors as much as possible between 10am and 4pm.
You can't carry enough water to hike in daylight hours more than a few miles as many an illegal crosser will tell you. My Uncle Jack , an avid outdoorsman, has hiked all over the US and has done Havasu several times. He says it is a real workout so it must be the case.
 
Before we got married, my wife and I looked into honeymooning at the Grand Canyon. Neither of us (at the time) had done any desert hiking. We got a book about hiking the canyon and after about the 5 or 6th warning about how not enough water could be lethal, we decided to go to Yosemite instead. Who the hell needs that kind of stress on their honeymoon? Woods hiking we understand.

Since then we've had the opportunity to go on day hikes in the desert (in the White Tanks, in AZ) and realize what a good idea it was for us not to do extended hikes as our introduction to the desert. Its a different world from what either of us was used to (northeastern forest).

I recommend it to anyone but if you've never done it before, just go for a few hours the first time, and do it between mid-late fall and early spring. Even in April or September it can be pretty brutal. At least, it seems that way to this New Englander.
 
Those who have not hiked in the desert also find it hard to believe that it can get cold at night in such places. Dehydration is not a good preparation for a cold night without proper insulation.
 
Glad to hear you had a good , and safe time ! :)

Yea being in the heat for any extended amount of time , two rules for me , proper clothing and lots of water. When I was younger I was a roofer for a few years , I learnt from the Mexicans that I worked with about thin , long sleeved shirts , lightwieght hats with a brim and water.

That hike sounds pretty neat , lots of nice scenery , dont blame you for being scared or cautious on that one part , caution can save your life or an injury.

One time while hiking Vernal falls with two friends we all came very close to falling in the water near the top of the falls , that scared me more than anything elese in my life I think and made me always keep my respect for nature. I am not the boss out there , nature is.
 
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