Have a Sharpmaker but also want to learn freehand.

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Oct 23, 2013
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I'd like to learn freehand but what would be the first couple of steps I take? Read a book on freehand sharpening, dive right in and get some stones, or both? Also, what size stone/s should I buy?
 
I'd like to learn freehand but what would be the first couple of steps I take? Read a book on freehand sharpening, dive right in and get some stones, or both? Also, what size stone/s should I buy?

I would recommend watching videos over most books. Knifenut has a bunch of very good ones on youtube under "MrEdgy". I have a bunch under "Neuman2010", make sure to watch any done by Murray Carter - worth it just for his philosophy, let alone observing his mechanical technique.

I would recommend a Norton Crystalon or one of my Washboards (am out of stock but will have more done by end of week, next Monday at latest). Ultimately the selection of stones to choose from is absolutely massive - diamond plates, waterstones in an array of grinding characteristics, several types of vitreous combination stones, natural stones, jointer stones, lapping films, sandpapers, ceramic (and for all these options there are multiple manufacturers...). You would do well to keep it simple to start, and move to other options as you gain better understanding. Since you already have working knowledge of burr formation/removal, progression etc, so really all about the physical mechanics of angle control. As long as you keep focused on that aspect you should pick it up quickly.

I like the Crystalon because its a simple tool, has good feedback, is cheap, and works on anything. I like my Washboard because it too is relatively cheap, works on anything, and once you learn a basic skillset it becomes a start to finish system - no other tools needed for final steps or maintenance. It also helps a lot with learning freehand technique, especially stropping.

Only other advice is to learn on cheap knives, nothing you're emotionally attached to!

Martin
 
If you want to learn freehand sharpening you can begin, believe it or not, with your Sharpmaker. Open it up, take out the rods and replace the cover, and then turn the base upside down. Lay the brown rods in the two grooves on the underside of the base. The SM rods will take care of finishing. For versatility you can get a coarse/medium Norton Crystolon stone for around $10. Longer stones make free handing easier, so get the 8" stone over the 6" if you can. There are many videos online, so remember to rough sharpen at a lower angle than the SM setting you plan to finish with. Lubricate with either mineral oil or soapy water. Good luck!
 
+1 on the Norton crystolon combination coarse/fine stone. A 6"x2"x1" stone would be ok but as HeavyHanded said, an 8"x3"x1" would be a better choice.

Don't drive yourself crazy and get frustrated trying to get an angle of exactly 20º or whaterver angle you are going for. Just make a good guestimate as to your angle and go from there. The key is to be consistent with your angle from knife to knife, blade to blade.

While many sharpening systems have guides that provide set angles, you've got to consider that the compaines that make sharpening systems make them within specs. That means that for one of their guides to be marked say 20º that their specification is probably between 19º to 21º - maybe a bit tighter but a wide specification none-the-less.

Bill1170 makes a good point about using your Sharpmaker as a stone by placing the rods as he suggested.

You're going to raise a burr while sharpening and a lot of people will tell you to get a strop. You don't need a strop to start. Just use a leather belt or even the pants leg of your jeans while you're sharpening. You don't need any kind of stropping compound either. Light pressure on a piece of leater, canvas, jeans or the like will do.

Good luck,
 
I would recommend watching videos over most books. Knifenut has a bunch of very good ones on youtube under "MrEdgy". I have a bunch under "Neuman2010", make sure to watch any done by Murray Carter - worth it just for his philosophy, let alone observing his mechanical technique.

I would recommend a Norton Crystalon or one of my Washboards (am out of stock but will have more done by end of week, next Monday at latest). Ultimately the selection of stones to choose from is absolutely massive - diamond plates, waterstones in an array of grinding characteristics, several types of vitreous combination stones, natural stones, jointer stones, lapping films, sandpapers, ceramic (and for all these options there are multiple manufacturers...). You would do well to keep it simple to start, and move to other options as you gain better understanding. Since you already have working knowledge of burr formation/removal, progression etc, so really all about the physical mechanics of angle control. As long as you keep focused on that aspect you should pick it up quickly.

I like the Crystalon because its a simple tool, has good feedback, is cheap, and works on anything. I like my Washboard because it too is relatively cheap, works on anything, and once you learn a basic skillset it becomes a start to finish system - no other tools needed for final steps or maintenance. It also helps a lot with learning freehand technique, especially stropping.

Only other advice is to learn on cheap knives, nothing you're emotionally attached to!


Martin


I cannot stress this bolded point enough. I have damaged a few knives from careless sharpening frenzy's--a result of lack of experience and impatience. One of the biggest issues for me is simply lack of knives to practice on. I only own a few knives all of which are decent quality. I was impatient, wanted to thin out a edge and I just went for it.

Anyhow you don't need expensive equipment to start. I have never used a crystalon stone before but being that its silicon carbide (very hard) it will cut anything. That in conjunction with maybe another stone or strop should give you great results. That aside, be patient and get cheap knives to practice on!!!
 
one of my Washboards

This. Martin's Washboard has been the single most important tool for teaching me how to maintain better consistency while sharpening. I still enjoy using my waterstones more, but the Washboard is constantly teaching me something new if I'm willing to listen to it :) Not to mention the entire system costs less than one of my stones :rolleyes:
 
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