Having fun with the belt grinder - Mirror edges.

Heiheit

Heiheit

Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
1,914
So, since today was such a lazy day I decided to make some sharp objects even sharper. If you recall, I made a thread about some wood chisels I sharpened on the 60 grit AlOx wheel, well I did some more on the belt grinder. All of these edges are convex and very highly polished. Sharpened up to 9 micron finished on the leather strop loaded with white.

Thanks for looking.

el3b5t.jpg

nc1pxl.jpg

osg1hx.jpg

2u6l3dy.jpg

18p2ev.jpg

smsup2.jpg

15xambn.jpg

6jk2l3.jpg

bi5ev9.jpg

2uemw03.jpg


The two chisels are some relatively inexpensive craftmans, a kershaw salvo, a buck 110 and an Estwing axe (Not sure what model, but I assume 5 because the sheath says No. 5)
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Nice! :thumbup:

Me thinks, trees would simply fall down in TERROR, when that axe gets unsheathed... :eek:

Those look good.
Click to expand...

LOL! :D

You see the lengthwise scrathes above the convex bevel? That is what used to be the edge. It wasn't pretty at all. I did this axe a little while back, but thought I'd share.

It's sharp as all hell.
 
Those look good. I've never tried sharpening chisels on the belt sander before. How do you like having a convex bevel on them?
 
dannyp said:
Those look good. I've never tried sharpening chisels on the belt sander before. How do you like having a convex bevel on them?
Click to expand...

I haven't tried it on any wood yet, but I'll be sure to see how they perform. I think some more high end chisels (Japanese maybe) come with a convex bevel. It seems like it would be tougher than a standard chisel grind.
 
Thanks, I may try it out on some cheapo ones I have that I keep around for quick and dirty jobs. Then I won't feel too bad if I don't like it.
 
Some unsolicited advice regarding woodworking tools and convex edges.

It depends on what you use them for. If you aim to do artistic carving convex is what the highly skilled guys will reach for. If you are doing basic carpentry (cutting relief for hinges or strike plates) a flat chisel grind will make it easier for a novice to cut at a constant angle.

If you are playing around...polished convex edges are fun and pretty!
 
unit said:
Some unsolicited advice regarding woodworking tools and convex edges.

It depends on what you use them for. If you aim to do artistic carving convex is what the highly skilled guys will reach for. If you are doing basic carpentry (cutting relief for hinges or strike plates) a flat chisel grind will make it easier for a novice to cut at a constant angle.

If you are playing around...polished convex edges are fun and pretty!
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I pretty much figured. Thanks! I haven't used the damn things in maybe two years and if the next time I use them they don't work so great, it's easy to put a V back on it.

Incidentally, these are the smallest ones I own, so I guess those are the best ones to put convexes on.
 
this is a noob question but does polishing the edge to that point make it significantly sharper?

sharper than say hitting it with the strop for 20ish strokes per side?
 
malicious said:
this is a noob question but does polishing the edge to that point make it significantly sharper?

sharper than say hitting it with the strop for 20ish strokes per side?
Click to expand...

You'll get a bunch of conflicting answers. My answer is "I dunno." :D
 
malicious said:
this is a noob question but does polishing the edge to that point make it significantly sharper?

sharper than say hitting it with the strop for 20ish strokes per side?
Click to expand...
That would depend on your grit progression prior to hitting the strop.

But after splitting hairs with my polished edge on my WorkSharp, I'd like to think so:thumbup:.

Even better would be to polish the edge, then strop it with sub-micron abrasives:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:.
 
Heiheit said:
Yeah, that's what I pretty much figured. Thanks! I haven't used the damn things in maybe two years and if the next time I use them they don't work so great, it's easy to put a V back on it.

Incidentally, these are the smallest ones I own, so I guess those are the best ones to put convexes on.
Click to expand...

They will work GREAT and the polished faces will help you to glide through whatever you are working on.

If you have skills you can use a convex chisel to do any sort of chisel work, but a flat face is going to tend to glide at an angle and stay on that plane, where a convex will allow you to change that angle more easily (and that can prove frustrating for a novice). As you say, you certainly appear to have at your disposal the ability to change it if you desire;)

There is no doubt in my mind that for doing fine hand work with wood, a polished edge and bevel is best. These are not only my opinions, everyone in the wood carving club in my town agrees. It is a simple matter of moving one tool across a surface as a cut is made...like any other machine, a reduction in friction will make the machine run smoother and with less effort/fatigue. If you are carving, you generally want a smooth cut.

I doubt many would argue that a coarse finish will offer less friction.

In wood carving, the friction has a direct impact on fatigue...and that is something you want to diminish if you are a wood carver. In carpentry, you generally drive the chisel with a hammer...so the extra efforts associated with polishing the edge are not realized as much in performance (thus most of these tools are finished well, but they forgo the expense of polishing a for the general consumer).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top