Having issues sharpening D2 with my Sharpmaker.

T

TheEdge01

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Apr 3, 2015
Messages
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I recently bought a new Brous VR-71 G10. It has a D2 blade, Brous Blades claim their D2 is hardened at 59-61 Rockwell. It wasn’t very sharp when I bought it, so I touched it up on my Sharpmaker after I got it home.
Well, the only sharpening rods I have are the medium and fine grit that came with it. After going through the Sharpmaker, I strop it on a leather strap with green honing paste. When I bought it, I noticed about an inch on the top portion of the blade is nowhere near as sharp as the rest.
I did the sharpie trick and the 30 degree slots make better contact than the 40 degree.
I can get the portion of the blade that makes contact with the rods nice and sharp but I am having more trouble with the top portion. What do you guys recommend, just keep sharpening and maybe it’ll catch up, or buy diamonds and try to grind the angle down?
 
uxo2 said:
Keep sharpening.

Buy diamonds later.
Click to expand...

According to the Brous web site, he hand sharpens his knives and for this reason, they couldn’t give you a definitive edge angle. I had to experiment a little to figure out what to do. His D2 is a little softer than I expected so hopefully it won’t take to long to sharpen the top portion of the blade out.
 
TheEdge01 said:
I recently bought a new Brous VR-71 G10. It has a D2 blade, Brous Blades claim their D2 is hardened at 59-61 Rockwell. It wasn’t very sharp when I bought it, so I touched it up on my Sharpmaker after I got it home.
Well, the only sharpening rods I have are the medium and fine grit that came with it. After going through the Sharpmaker, I strop it on a leather strap with green honing paste. When I bought it, I noticed about an inch on the top portion of the blade is nowhere near as sharp as the rest.
I did the sharpie trick and the 30 degree slots make better contact than the 40 degree.
I can get the portion of the blade that makes contact with the rods nice and sharp but I am having more trouble with the top portion. What do you guys recommend, just keep sharpening and maybe it’ll catch up, or buy diamonds and try to grind the angle down?
Click to expand...

Just curious... what do you mean, "the 30 degree slots make better contact than the 40 degree"? Usually it's the other way around. (Where are you seeing Sharpie removed at, with each angle)?

Personally, I wouldn't rely on the regular Sharpmaker stones to do much work (heck, I wouldn't even use their diamond stones, unless I had no other choice). You could be in for a task... depending on what's actually going on here... :eek:
 
cbwx34 said:
Just curious... what do you mean, "the 30 degree slots make better contact than the 40 degree"? Usually it's the other way around. (Where are you seeing Sharpie removed at, with each angle)?

Personally, I wouldn't rely on the regular Sharpmaker stones to do much work (heck, I wouldn't even use their diamond stones, unless I had no other choice). You could be in for a task... depending on what's actually going on here... :eek:
Click to expand...

The angle is much narrower than expected. No sharpie was removed using the 40 degree slots. At 30 degrees it was actually hitting really good in some areas. I figured the edge would eventually even out after a while.
 
TheEdge01 said:
The angle is much narrower than expected. No sharpie was removed using the 40 degree slots. At 30 degrees it was actually hitting really good in some areas. I figured the edge would eventually even out after a while.
Click to expand...

Ok. If 30 degrees is hitting... then 40 has got to be hitting right at the edge... maybe it's just too small to see? Might look under better light, and/or magnification.

Since this should be the case, you can touch it up at 40 degrees to make it sharp(er), then reprofile the rest over time... one route to take anyway.
 
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