Having trouble deciding on an axe for camping/backpacking.

RemyKaze

RemyKaze

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Mar 23, 2012
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Hey guys. I'm usually more of a machete guy, but I'm looking for a great smaller to medium axe to carry with me when I hit the woods. My intentions are chopping and light splitting, as well as possibly choking up for detail work. I've narrowed it down to a few choices, although alternatives are welcome as well.

My choices are the Les Stroud Bushman Axe, the Gransfors Bruks Hunters Axe, the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe, The Ray Mears Wilderness Axe, and the comparable Wetterlings offerings in that size range. Any input on comparison of these would be greatly appreciated, as they fall into a similar price range. So far I'm really eyeballing that Les Stroud Wetterlings.
 
Of all those I'd prolly go with the GB small FA.
Something about that Strouds axe just don't look right to me, but I've never used one, so it might be a fine axe.
I've got a GB Forest Axe and I really like it.
I would rather have one of those than the small FA. You can get much more work done with the Forest Axe with just a little more added weight.
 
bearhunter said:
Of all those I'd prolly go with the GB small FA.
Something about that Strouds axe just don't look right to me, but I've never used one, so it might be a fine axe.
I've got a GB Forest Axe and I really like it.
I would rather have one of those than the small FA. You can get much more work done with the Forest Axe with just a little more added weight.
Click to expand...

Is that the Scandinavian Forest Axe? Looks like it's only .2 kg more in weight. Looks like it might be the size of a boy's axe?
 
I hardly think you could go wrong with either but since I have the GB Small Forest Axe I would recommend it. However if "to carry with me when I hit the woods" means packing it I would probably go in a different direction.

Personally I like the kukri because of its multi role use but if you want to stick with the axe type I would also recommend the TwoHawks Longhunter or Voyager tomahawk. Not only will they easily do the tasks you mentioned but you can pop the head off for ease of carry in a pack and you can also easily take an extra haft in the odd case one breaks. Not something often done with a traditional axe. The hawk will also do fine detail work better than most bigger axes.
 
Ask yourself how much you value splitting vs carving/bushcraft as I'd say that's the primary difference between the wetterlings and GB 19" models. They're both flat-faced with a moderate concave behind the bit, but the wetterlings tends to be just a bit thicker. This makes the Wetterlings a more capable splitter, but makes it not as amazing for detail work as the GB. The GBs also tend to come with a thinner convex and more refined (generally shaving sharp) edge from factory than Wetterlings - if that's important to you..

As for the Led Stroud, I haven't used one so I can't say too much. Seems like it would be amazing for splitting and felling, but the bit wouldn't be too good for detailed work being thick and somewhat weighty (at least compared to the GB and standard wetterlings).

RemyKaze said:
. . .My intentions are chopping and light splitting, as well as possibly choking up for detail work. . .
Click to expand...

This is the part that's sort of bugging me about your statement as I'm not too sure how to interpret "chopping and light splitting". The way I read it though is that you might potentially be using the axe to fell standing deadwood (maybe trees in the 6-8" range?) and process it for firewood.. and if that's the case, you might seriously want to think about stepping up into the 24-28" range of axe. I own both the GB Small Forest Axe (19", 1.5 lb) and the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe (25", 2 lb) and can tell you from experience that the 19" is VERY lackluster for any half-serious wood processing. It's not quite a long enough length haft to swing properly with two hands and, in my experience, that's the point at which you REALLY see the advantages of an axe over long blades (this coming from a previous kukri and bolo fanatic)

That said, if I were to only to carry one axe with me whilst camping/backpacking and I had ANY intention of doing actual wood processing, I'd definitely reach for my GB Scandi and pair it with a 24" collapsible bucksaw. The 25" haft of the Scandi allows me to fell trees up to 8-10" without much issue, limb said tree without having to stoop to an uncomfortable level, then split the rounds after I section them out with the bucksaw. At 2lbs (I think it's actually closer to ~1.75), the head actually feels very light to me and I can do bcarving tasks (like making tent pegs doing basic shaping) without suffering any wrist or forearm fatigue.

As it stands though, I'm going to be changing my load-out to consist of a 3lb jersey on a 28" haft + 24" collapsible bucksaw strapped to the pack and a soon-to-be-purchased GB wildlife to go on the belt with my small fixed blade.. My GB Small Forest axe probably isn't going to see much use anymore and will either get set aside or sold off :(
 
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RemyKaze said:
Is that the Scandinavian Forest Axe? Looks like it's only .2 kg more in weight. Looks like it might be the size of a boy's axe?
Click to expand...

Yes I was referring to the Scandinavian Forest Axe. It's very similar to a boys axe, but a little lighter in weight and slightly shorter.
 
killa_concept nailed it. For the weight difference, a Scandi FA will far outperform the SFA.
After using only a full-size felling axe for a few weeks, going back to the Scandi made me realize how light it actually is.
 
killa_concept said:
Ask yourself how much you value splitting vs carving/bushcraft as I'd say that's the primary difference between the wetterlings and GB 19" models. They're both flat-faced with a moderate concave behind the bit, but the wetterlings tends to be just a bit thicker. This makes the Wetterlings a more capable splitter, but makes it not as amazing for detail work as the GB. The GBs also tend to come with a thinner convex and more refined (generally shaving sharp) edge from factory than Wetterlings - if that's important to you..

As for the Led Stroud, I haven't used one so I can't say too much. Seems like it would be amazing for splitting and felling, but the bit wouldn't be too good for detailed work being thick and somewhat weighty (at least compared to the GB and standard wetterlings).



This is the part that's sort of bugging me about your statement as I'm not too sure how to interpret "chopping and light splitting". The way I read it though is that you might potentially be using the axe to fell standing deadwood (maybe trees in the 6-8" range?) and process it for firewood.. and if that's the case, you might seriously want to think about stepping up into the 24-28" range of axe. I own both the GB Small Forest Axe (19", 1.5 lb) and the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe (25", 2 lb) and can tell you from experience that the 19" is VERY lackluster for any half-serious wood processing. It's not quite a long enough length haft to swing properly with two hands and, in my experience, that's the point at which you REALLY see the advantages of an axe over long blades (this coming from a previous kukri and bolo fanatic)

That said, if I were to only to carry one axe with me whilst camping/backpacking and I had ANY intention of doing actual wood processing, I'd definitely reach for my GB Scandi and pair it with a 24" collapsible bucksaw. The 25" haft of the Scandi allows me to fell trees up to 8-10" without much issue, limb said tree without having to stoop to an uncomfortable level, then split the rounds after I section them out with the bucksaw. At 2lbs (I think it's actually closer to ~1.75), the head actually feels very light to me and I can do bcarving tasks (like making tent pegs doing basic shaping) without suffering any wrist or forearm fatigue.

As it stands though, I'm going to be changing my load-out to consist of a 3lb jersey on a 28" haft + 24" collapsible bucksaw strapped to the pack and a soon-to-be-purchased GB wildlife to go on the belt with my small fixed blade.. My GB Small Forest axe probably isn't going to see much use anymore and will either get set aside or sold off :(
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies, guys. I actually did not see them til just now, and still haven't pulled the trigger on an axe. I'm in favor of weight over splitting ability, but I don't want to overwork myself if I'm trying to get at some dry wood after a rain. That's really the only reason I'd find it necessary to split wood.
 
I would like to third Killa's comments. I have used a SFA quite a bit. My wife recently gifted me a Scandinavian not realizing that they were very similar. After just a bit of use, I now know that the SFA will soon be sold. The Scandi does everything plus some at a small penalty of length. I love the little SFA but it just is not going to see much use.

I think my time will be split between hatchets in the 14-16" range and axes 26-32".

Bill
 
If you want an axe, I hae the GB hunter's axe -- and unless they changed their prices recently, it's considerably more than the others -- and I prefer it over any other axe of that length. I prefer the handle shape over that of the Small Forest, although a lot of people feel the opposite. This was the axe that made me realize that I rally could do anything with an axe. I use it for game, for firewood, for carving (I catually made a better spoon with this than I did with my knives). I can't recommend it highly enough.

I also have a Scandinavian Forest, and for an axe of that size, I love it to death. There is a loss of dexterity with it when using it for carving or processing game over the smaller Hunter's. Howeve, if you really need a lot of wood, it quickly makes up for its size and increase in weight.

For backpacking long distances (I don't know if this is what you mean by backpacking, or if you mean walking a few miles intot he woods to set up camp), I don't think either would be my choice.

Likely I'd go with a Cold Steel Spike hawk (the spike aids in climbing, digging and other chores around camp), or trail hawk. They are both lighter than the axes, and easier to carry if you want to stow the head in your pack and keep the haft on the outside until the tool is needed.

For the most part, I would recommend not buying anything expensive off the bat until you firgure out what works best for you, and the style of outdoors activity you prefer. Once you know this, then by all means draw up what you really want (fixing the "problems" of the closest item you've used) and have a custom made. The only exception to this is if you really want the GB Hunter's, you're pretty much stuck buying it, as I don't know of any non-custom like it and a custom will cost at least as much. Sometimes you can get them fairly cheap used from people who do not like the shape of the haft, and want to recoup some of the cost
 
chuxwan said:
killa_concept nailed it. For the weight difference, a Scandi FA will far outperform the SFA.
After using only a full-size felling axe for a few weeks, going back to the Scandi made me realize how light it actually is.
Click to expand...

This. Scandi isn't the best splitter, but it does decently. If you're willing to spend the extra cash Uncle Rays axe should give you better performance over the Scandi.
However, there is a lot that can go wrong shipping between England and the US. Even more time and things to go wrong returning it if something ever was wrong.
 
Wetterlings.
but i don't own a Wetterlings.
i personally would start out with a less expensive axe.
do some chopping, carving, splitting and such.
luck
 
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