Having trouble sharpening this S30V

TheseusTheDestroyer

TheseusTheDestroyer

Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
175
I'm using a ceramic block, I've been working it for like 20 minutes and still nothing,

I'm trying to get my Spyderco Manix 2 XL hair popping sharp before I sell it.

Any idea? should I just find a courser stone?

I can't afford a sharpmaker and I don't want to send it to spyderco and wait like 2 months before I get it back..

Thanks!
 
I agree with revdevil. Ceramic is for finishing. Check out the lansky system. Being that its S30V, the diamond stones would be quicker but not much cheaper than the sharpmaker. The Worksharp guided field sharpener works great also..for like $25-30. I've found that with these higher end steels, constant maintenance is better than resharpening. A ceramic hone and a leather strop can be your best friends. ..
 
SurvivorDan said:
I've found that with these higher end steels, constant maintenance is better than resharpening. A ceramic hone and a leather strop can be your best friends. ..
Click to expand...

Exactly, keeping the apex polished is better than having to restore it.
 
It's not dull, it slices paper pretty nicely, but for some reason I can't get it hair popping sharp..

I've had this problem before with S30V is it just a thing that this particular steel does or is it possible to get it shaving sharp?
 
I have 3 s30v blades the manix xl, BM grip, and kershaw blur and all are shaving sharp with my lansky and strop. I strop with white rouge then green and they will shave with almost no pressure. The manix was the hardest to get shaving sharp though and took the longest time, I have no idea why.
 
You know what, my ZT 0350TS takes a shaving edge! Maybe it's the blade shape or maybe it's a different angle? I'm pretty sure Spyderco knives are 21 degrees, I don't know about Kershaw or Benchmade.
 
TheseusTheDestroyer said:
It's not dull, it slices paper pretty nicely, but for some reason I can't get it hair popping sharp..

I've had this problem before with S30V is it just a thing that this particular steel does or is it possible to get it shaving sharp?
Click to expand...
- You can get shaving sharp with any steel. How well it keeps the edge is a different story. S30V will keep an edge very well.

I would give more advice on sharpening, but I'm terrible at freehand sharpening... which is why I bought a Wicked Edge.
 
My XL came at 30 degrees total. I added a 40 micro and it was push cut sharp in about 20 light strokes on ceramic.
Maybe just go a little steeper .
 
Here is one thing I have noticed about my own efforts with sharpening. Holding a consistent angle is nearly impossible for the period of time it takes to turn a dull blade in to a shaving sharp one. It is just the nature of the human anatomy and fatigue. As was pointed out it it easier to keep a hard steel sharp with frequent maintenance rather than waiting until it is dull. Anything that holds a consistent angle for you will make for a sharper edge. An out door edge 30 degrees and a kitchen edge 20 degrees are approximate then adjusted to your work style and what works best for your steel. A fine stone will increase the fatigue factor due to the time required to take off enough steel to achieve a good edge. A range of grits are required.
I have a small folding Boker with Damascus steel it is easy to sharpen and cuts well even when apparently dull. I have some hard steels that are impossible to sharpen with out help holding the angle. If you want hard steels get something to hold the angle for you even if a small block of wood with the correct angle. I can't help but think that buying a knife designed with a convex edge in hard steel would be easier to keep sharp with simple methods. Sand paper and a mouse pad. Just some random thoughts.
 
rmbonham said:
diamond stones
Click to expand...

In a nutshell, there^ it is. That'll get it tuned up quick. :thumbup:

If the edge is already 'pretty sharp', even a single diamond hone in Fine/EF grit should handle it easily. If it's very dull, other hones, like a Norton India or Crystolon may do well enough, depending on how polished you wish to go (if at all). If going for a high polish using grits below ~5µ in size or so, the vanadium carbides in the steel may start getting in the way of all abrasives except diamond or CBN, which will be needed to significantly refine the carbides themselves.


David
 
The good thing about S30V is that it's very wear resistent.
The bad thing about S30V is that it's very wear resistent. It takes forever to sharpen it. :)

I don't seem to be able to get S30V quite as sharp as some other steels. Fortunately, it's good enough for my purposes. On knife I have with an S30V is still shaving sharp after several months of light use for cutting paper, wood, string and whatever else I run into. Of course it will vary depending on how it's used.

Allen
 
TheseusTheDestroyer said:
I'm using a ceramic block, I've been working it for like 20 minutes and still nothing,

I'm trying to get my Spyderco Manix 2 XL hair popping sharp before I sell it.

Any idea? should I just find a courser stone?

I can't afford a sharpmaker and I don't want to send it to spyderco and wait like 2 months before I get it back..

Thanks!
Click to expand...

TheseusTheDestroyer said:
It's not dull, it slices paper pretty nicely, but for some reason I can't get it hair popping sharp..

I've had this problem before with S30V is it just a thing that this particular steel does or is it possible to get it shaving sharp?
Click to expand...

Is it possible you are working the edge over too much each way, leaving a micro rolled edge, burr, or wire edge? When you cut the paper does it slice nice and easy like butter or does it "snag" any and have a rougher cut, not necessarily to the point of tearing, just rough cut?

When you finish try a few edge leading strokes on your ceramic block, VERY light (not even the weight of the blade). Then strop. If you don't have a good strop try a hard block of wood and news paper over top.

There are two possible hold-backs, or a combination, to your sharp edge. 1= not refining it enough; and 2 = not forming it properly.
 
i'll definitely try this, thanks for the info! the knife definitely tears the paper ever-so-slightly. it cuts easier if i slice fast but when i drag it across the paper slowly it starts to snag a little.
 
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