Hawksbill help requested

Joined
Sep 28, 2005
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I have been asked to either modify a clip point blade to hawksbill on a folder, or to make a new hawksbill style fixed blade by a friend. I have never done a recurve/concave shape before, nor have I worked with the pattern enough to know the intricacies of the use of this shape. So I am here to ask advice on what design features to utilize/avoid or any advice that is willing to be dispensed.

I am thinking that I may just modify the clip blade. Take it down to a wharncliffe shape, then give a recurve near the tip. I'm assuming that thinning the edge will be a bit of a challenge due to concavity trying to keep the blade uniformly thin along the length. I am also wondering how severe to make the concavity- I am thinking of a gentle curve near the choil, deepening near the tip. But how much removal? I am assuming leaving a tip like a Spyderco Catcherman will be more difficult to thin/make acceptable bevels, while more steel left behind will make a stronger blade but less curvature to pull things into the cut with.

A very quick picture done up before my next client to (poorly) demonstrate what I mean. I haven't seen the knife he is talking about, but everything is a learning step at this stage, so as long as it isn't an expensive blade I will probably try the mod for him.
EBE8203D-7A4D-4FEF-86D7-4C221E377CCA-574-0000005F53A0A175_zps96a48ea2.jpg


I have a 4x36, a 1x42, and files, sharpening equipment, dremel etc. btw.

Thanks for any help.
 
The tip is usually slightly lower, so you might have a hard time effectively turning a clip point.

Regardless, I would make sure you make an exact cardboard mockup of the blade before grinding.
 
If it was me I would start from scratch and make a fixed blade. One of the problems will be how much blade you have to remove to achieve the shape. You would pretty much have to cut it off where the belly starts and that will shorten the blade considerably. It may look pretty goofy with a blade that short, stuck in a full sized handle. There is also the issue of grinding a heat treated blade to modify it that heavily while keeping it cool enough to not ruin the original Ht. Lastly, I just think there may not be enough blade width period, to achieve the look you are going for. I would try grinding a few hawk bills out of scrap or as fixed blades before I put a customers factory knife to the grinder.
 
Turn it into a warncliff first with a straight cutting edge. Then remove material in the center giving the piece more curve turning it into a hawksbill. A hawksbill also does not need to be a dramatic as in your drawings.
 
Here is a the only common usage of a hawks bill that I can think of.
103.jpg


It's a carpet knife. They all seem to have about the same proportions.
 
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