head weight/handle weight ratio

B

beyondmyken

Joined
Dec 23, 2000
Messages
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Is there a minimum/maximum head weight to handle length ratio for effecient chopping? It seems like some of the smaller hatchets/axes choose a handle length based on portability rather than function, but I am extremely ignorant on axes. FYI, I am looking for a relativley lightweight hatchet/axe to use when quartering up a large animal like an elk or someday a moose. It would be used to remove the skull cap or open the ribcage or pelvis. I suppose if I got caught out overnight in an emergency situation I would chop branches or open up a log for dry wood. Weight is somewhat of an issue if I am in the mountains at altitude. I tried some of the full tang "backpacking" hatchets but found them worthless. Regards.
Well looking around, there is a Buck camp axe, Eastman Outdoors ax/saw combo, Gerber, and the numerous tomahawk styles. The latter seem to have a longer handle length for their head weight. I know there are the Gransfors bruks axes but they seem too upscale for me right now.:(
 
If you buy a GB model, you'll only have to buy that size axe once. The question is how much weight you can tolerate. The GB Hunter's Axe is great for heavy work and Budman (of this Forum) has used the flay poll to skin several large animals in an afternoon (caribou, if I recall correctly). The only problem is that it undoubtedly weighs over 2 lbs (the smaller Wildlife Hatchet, discussed in my neighboring thread, came in at 1 1/2 lbs).

Some of the guys on the other major knife discussion forum have experimented with smaller axe heads on longer handles. There may also be some discussion of that option in past threads of our own wilderness/survival forum. You might want to search both. Personally, I've been happy with the ratio GB maintains in matching head weight to handle length.
 
Balance in a tomahawk (and those crude things sold
in stores as hatchets or hand axes) is a very vital
issue if the tool is going to achieve maximum
effectiveness in the field. I don't know a math
formula that could be used .... when building my
own 1-pound Woodsman Hawk for the trappers, packers,
and back-country hunters that wanted an ultralight
heavy-duty tool I played with the head for quite a
while to get maximum edge and hammer poll for the
minimum weight and then fitted a 16 inch standard
hawk handle and started cutting off 1/2 inch at a
time. What finally "felt right" was 13 inches of
premium hickory below the head but the whole thing
was totally subjective based on a lot of years of
making tools and using tomahawks. Don't know any
way to come up with a formula for this but it seems
to work very well in the field and is popular.
Hope this helps .... you just have to "feel" the
hawk and use it in the field. Start with a longer
handle and feel free to cut off the end if it does
not feel right, and for the use you are describing
try to keep the toal weight around a pound.
Best regards,
Two Hawks
http://www.2hawks.net
 
Hi,

Since deal in a good variety of 'hawks and axes, with weights from about 8 ounces to several pounds I get to at least handle a lot of different combinations. I think Two Hawks is right, you just have to feel what works best for you. A lot of us end up shortening the handles until they feel right. The only problem with this is that it only works with 'hawk style straight handles. One of the reasons for this style of handle is that it will slide out of your hand smoothly when throwing. This is not necesarilary a good thing if your hands are cold or you're wearing gloves. Many of the original 'hawks had a knob on the end of the handle to improve grip. On occasion I've added a leather band to a straight handle by carving a groove to help keep it in place.
Since it doesn't sound as if you intend to throw it, you might look for something with a conventional handle. You might look at the Wetterling brand. They are very similar to Granfors at much less cost. The
Pocket Hunter runs about a pound and a half with the sheath, and comes with a about a 12 ½" handle, which you will appreciate of it's on your belt in the mountains and scrub.
Most of what you will find in the hardware stores isn't worth carrying home, especially in the lighter head weights you are looking for. The edges will almost certainly require major work to thin the profile. The modern "hunter" style hand axes with the plastic handle molded around a light blade are pretty useless (IMO). The handle is so heavy in relation to the blade that it defeats the purpose of an axe, which is to put useful mass out on the end of a stick, which is only a handle and lever, and should be as light as practical.
Like many other things, handle length and head weight are a series of trade offs. Within limits, a longer handle gives the head more velocity so it does more work, but with less control. If it's too long it becomes awkward to carry. On the other hand it allows the use of a lighter head which is easier to carry. I took a hand axe head and put it on a long handle for canoeing. It's light enough for one hand, and long enough for two, and doesn't weigh much more than it did as a hatchet. The length is no bother in a canoe, but wouldn't be so great on foot in the mountains. If you hunt with a light pack, this would change everything, but unless you always hunt with the pack, you can be sure the axe will be back in camp when you need it.
Just another 2¢ worth, I hope it helps.
-Ragnar
http://ragweedforge.com
 
Ragnar -
You are a man after my own ancient heart on a lot of this and you have obviously hit on the same things that I have over the years that make an edged tool (or weapon) effective or not. Disagree on a few points (like advantage/disadvantage of traditional tomahawk handle shape) but your advice is very like what I would provide to the young folks if I still had the energy to do so.
If I get to feeling better/stronger and have a break in trying to catch up on the backlog of 70 hawks I will try to address some more experience and advice on handles. My own heavy camp hawk has a moosehide handgrip sewed and fitted on it after flying across camp from sweaty hands at the 1993 Western National Rendezvous. The handle shape still works better for a number of reasons in my experience and historic research.
Best regards,
TWO HAWKS
http://www.2hawks.net
 
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