Heat dissipation during grinding

[Michael Bennett]

When you stock-removal types out there grind a blade, how do you keep the blade cool? Lubrication with water or oil?

Do you cool by free-flowing stream or "grind, dip, grind, dip" method?

How hot is too hot in grinding annealed steel?

If you grind on a belt grinder, does using a water stream (trickle) to cool cause the belt to disintegrate sooner?

So many questions, so little time.

Mike

 

[Jim Smyth]

I am fairly new to grinding myself but I do the grind and dip in bucket of water to cool. I grind bare handed and since the metal you are working with is annealed it really doesnt matter how much heat you generate if you can hold on to the blade. Now if the blade is heat treated and tempered and you grind with gloves on you might have problems if you get it to hot, maybe ruining the temper.

 

[C L Wilkins]

Michael,

I, like most other stock removal types, do the grind and dip method, so to speak. Even the fellows that forge still have to grind and polish their blades.

As far as being able to get the steel too hot, there are work hardenable steels such as Cruwear (Crucible's answer to Vascowear and still available I may add). I have had the misfortune to get it too hot while grinding and it gets so hard that trying to grind it any further is useless, it just knocks the grit right off of the belts. In essense, you must dissipate the heat some how on some steels. It makes it easier on the fingers as well.

As far as a constant stream or a bath of water being used, the only application that I am aware is the lapidary process when dealing with rocks or stones.

In the machine tool industry, some applications require the necessity of a cutting and/or cooling fluid while machining parts. This saves on tool life.

CLWilkins

 

[Kevin Wilkins]

I use a big steel bucket filled with soapy water. The soap helps keep the blade from rusting and causes the particles to fall to the bottom and not flowat on the top.

I'd wear gloves when rough grinding the blade. One slip and you can take off a lot of hide from your fingers with a course belt...

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www.wilkins-knives.com

 

[Michael Bennett]

Great tips. Thanks!

 

[BCK]

I grind then dip. I grind bare handed also & basically grind until the work gets to hot to hold on to, which isn't very long, then dip into a tub of water. Having a constant stream of water on the belt would be very messy & could create an elec. hazard. What Kevin said about removing hide from fingers is very true. I was working a S.S. Bolster on the flat platen with a little too much pressure & the platen collapsed & sucked my hand into a fast running 36 (new) belt. Very messy

Please be carefull.

 

[tom mayo]

It REALLY depends on the steel youre grinding, the hi tech super sopisticated alloys require temps in the 2000 degree range to heat treat...so you can grind to your hearts content and not worry....but the lower alloy types that work harden will get as hard as a rock if you get them too hot..Bob engnath used to say that the redder ats got the easier it was to grind...and that is true...one thing...constant overheating of hi tech alloys can burn all the carbon out of the steel...bad...but dont think you could do that with a belt grinder. another important note.....an even grind will have much less tendency to warp during heat treat...and warp they do....even if only a little.....it is a consideration....