Heat fitting tang to handle

G

grumpy_grinder

Joined
Oct 2, 2015
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After drilling and broaching and splitting a bunch of handles trying to get that tight fit , I felt like I was only left with 2 other options before I broke out , ran outside with a bottle of booze swinging a cactus over my head to ease my frustration. All I kept doing is splitting handles.Option one was heat fitting the tang and option 2 was essentially glass bedding the handle. I've had great success heat fitting ... What a relief. It works great on maple and birch handles. Now I'm just wondering if I can use the same method on antler or synthetic materials. If not ... I guess I won't be attempting a hidden tang with Anything but wood...

Cheers

Grumpy
 
It was used on antler, but it really stinks. Another traditional way of doing it would be to soften the antler with alcohol or water - a long soak will soften the marrow - and insert the tang. When it dries the marrow hardens up again around the tang.
 
That said, "glass bedding" (epoxy resin) really doesn't have any structural downsides, since it helps stabilize whatever the handle material is as well as fill gaps and protect the tang from rust. The trade off is usually that you have to either use a guard to cover the hole or a pommel plug.

You can't burn into synthetics. There are better and easier ways of dealing with micarta for a one piece hidden tang.
 
I dont like to burn in tangs, I think it overall can weaken the material from the excess heat on the parts that remain.
However, I have burnt in a hole to work from.
This is burnt with a scrap steel piece, not the knife tang. and its smaller than actual size, just enough to get broaches & other tools passed thru to finish up.
 
i can live with the stink of antler burning. It's like blue cheese ... an acquired smell you learn to love over time lol. I think i'll try the antler soaking methode.

cheers

Grumpy
 
How are your handles splitting? It sounds like you're trying to force the handle on before the tang hole is big enough. Use a drill bit that is slightly thicker than your tang, then use a broach for the rest.

Can't help you with burning in the tang however. I've never tried it.
 
I've 'burnt in' a lot of hidden tangs--even in synthetics, it actually worked well in those cases. I pull the tang out after getting it seated as I want, and then aggressively brush out the hole to remove any carbonized material, I then wash out the cavity with some Acetone and brush out one more time. I have tested to destruction a few of these knives, and the handle material failed earlier than the epoxy joint.
I often don't need to do this, but I have had good success when I used this approach. I have used it on Whitetail and Elk and Mule deer and Sitka deer antler as well as wood and synthetic.

Good luck to you!
 
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