How To Heat treat oven resistance?

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Dec 22, 2016
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hey guys and gals, I've tried everything that I can to insert a photo however, so far I've been unable. I have coils halfway into the brick via channels that are dremeled in order to hold them in as opposed to a bunch of staples I simply took several pieces of kanthal wire and just basically wrapped the outside of the break to hold them in,But this means that the single piece that I just installed to hold the coils in place touches four legs of the same coil and my question is this, the ohms remain the same as far as the meter goes but does anyone know if this will hinder the operation?
 
I think I understand what you are saying ?
Shorting four turns of a coil that has 100s of turns will slightly lower the resistance. This should not seriously affect the operation.
 
It is a little unclear to me whether the wire you use to hold the coil in place is actually wrapped around to the outside of the brick? This may be wrong or "obvious", but if that is what you did, then *dont*. That wire exposed on the outside of the brick will be "hot", in the electrical sense, when the coil is energized. "Danger will robinson" .....
 
If you are shorting coils with the pins/staples, you *may* be fine.

I would not risk it because I have had elements fail on my early HT ovens where there is contact, and it seems like a miniscule amount of movement/sparking/arcing/whatever may have been the cause: eroding away the element so that it gets slightly thinner, and therefore hotter, at the contact point until it burns out.

You need to bear in mind that the elements run on AC, so there is a relatively strong electromagnetic interaction between the coils at every high peak and every low peak of each cycle, followed by zero electromagnetic interaction as the Voltage crosses Zero, that will cause them to move against a fixed staple or, in the case of my failed elements, the tail end of the element where I'd wrapped it around the terminal post and let the free end touch the element. It's the same effect that causes transformers to "hum" at 120 Hz in the US and 50 Hz in Europe.

The failures on mine (16 Ga Kanthal A1) took between 1 and 3 years of semi-pro use. I later built some with 1/16" Kanthal A1 elements, taking doubled, twisted tails out through the walls and had no further problems. I stretch the coils to at least 3 times their tight-coiled length and use staples made from 0.8mm (1/32") Kanthal A1 over single coils, specifically to ensure that there is no shorting of coils.

Whatever you do, please let us know how you get on.
 
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