Temperature is the main predictor of grain growth, it requires lots of time to grow the grain. 5,10, or even 20 minutes won’t make any difference, especially if there are carbides which pin the grain boundaries.
Hoss
thanks, that's what I needed to know
I did read Larrin's 13 myths where he addresses this - "
Some knifemakers are afraid of holding too long at austenitizing temperature because of concerns about grain growth. However, grain growth is controlled by both time and temperature. Recommended heat treatments often provide longer hold times at lower temperatures where significant grain growth would take a very long time. The longer hold times at lower temperatures means both thick and thin parts will result in a similar heat treatment. Sometimes datasheets will provide different temperatures or hold times depending on the thickness of the piece, but that is more of an economical feature (don’t waste any more time than necessary) than one that is required for performance.
There are other dangers to using short hold times, such as the heat treatment being much more sensitive to small changes at short times."
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The reason I'm asking is because of inconsistent results with 52100 laminated steel that has been forged (by me)
Even running the proper cycles before, I get inconsistent and unreliable results. this is the only steel I struggle with to heat treat, but only the san mai billets, not the stock removal (i.e. coupons)
I just did the same gyuto heat treat now for the 3rd time upping the soak to 20 minutes and finally getting the hardness I want. I get that this is a function of my furnace and setup etc..
In working with Tim Wright, who as you know has been making knives a long time and doing his own heat treating, I noticed most of his soak times are quite a bit longer than some of the guidelines I read. But he hits the desired HT every time perfectly. Even last night he said to me - don't be cheap with the soak times....
Harbeer