heat treat question

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May 25, 2020
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New to the forum and almost as new to knife making. I recently built a heat treat oven (3500 watt/240 volt) and have have no experience using it or heat treating a knife. I'm unsure of any recommended procedures that I'm suppose to utilize.

My immediate question is do I simply load the knife/knifes and start the heat treat cycle and pull/quench when at target temperature?

Or do I preheat the oven and then load knives and pull/quench at target temp.

thanks
 
I preheat, wait a while after it comes to temperature and then put the blade in. After the oven comes back to temp, I set a timer and pull the blade out and quench it after the timer goes off. The amount of time needed at temperature is different for different steels. Alpha knife supply has heat treating info for different steels, good resource to get an idea for temperatures and times.
 
Yes, like Hubert said, the best route is to allow the oven to come up to temp, rest at that temp for maybe 15-20 minutes to cancel any possible temp overshoot. Then insert the blade, and start the soak timer once the temperature has rebounded back to the target temp. The faster the blade comes up to temp the better, as I understand it. And if you load the kiln first, then the blade takes a lot longer to come up to temp, it can be exposed to temp overshoots, and while the thermocouple might say "1905F", the chamber atmosphere may not be equally and fully at that temp (so let it settle there for a while and then insert blade).
 
Thanks for the repleys, that's a really big help.My first knives were A2 tool steel and heat treated professionally. The knives I'm heat treating myself are 1095 and 1080 carbon steel.

question. 2: If you heat treat multiple knives at a time ( 1095/1080) are the knives waiting to be quenched ok soaking.

question 3: While heat treating multiple knives do you use multiple quench pots or does the quench cool off fast enough between knives that it stays at the required temp?
 
When doing multiple knives of different soak times, like 1095 (5-10 minute soak) and 1080 ( 1-2 minute soak) pull the shortest time blades first. If doing a batch of knives of the same time, pull the first blade when the soak time is up. Within reason the others will be fine with the additional time in the oven. Make sure the oven has returned to the target temperature before pulling the next blade.

As for quenching multiple blades, it largely depends on two things Quenchant type and quenchant volume. I personally feel that 2 gallons is the minimum quenchant volumne for quenching one blade, and 3 to 5 gallons in needed to quench more than one blade. If using Parks #50, you use it at room temperature. It can rise to 100°F with no loss of quenchant speed. If using AAA or similar oil, you have to heat it to 120-130°F before quenching. The best solution when doing multiple blades with this type quenchants is start at 115°F and let the temperature rise as you quench the blades. The oil will need to be cooled down if it reaches 140°F. One simple way to do that is freeze a quart milk bottle full of water and have a string tied around the neck. If the oil gets too warm, take the bottle ( wipe off any condensation or frost) and dunk it in the tank a bit to drop the temperature.
In most cases, a fan blowing across the quench tank will help keep the temperature within range. You have a couple minutes between quenches anyway as the oven rebounds to the target.

TIP:
Set up a set of quench plates. These are thick aluminum plates (usually 3-4" wide, 1.5-2" thick, and 12-18" long) that you clamp a blade between. Foe stainless steel and other air quench steels (like A-2) the blade is put between the plates right after being removed from the oven. For oil quenched blades, after about 8 seconds in the oil, clamp the blade in the plates to prevent or lessen warp and twist. If doing multiple blades, when the next blade is quenched, pull the one out of the plates and put the new one in.
 
I'd highly suggest making some coupons of a known steel (1080 would be a good choice) and testing them at various temperatures above and below your target temperature. Snap them off in a vice to check out the grain structure. If you have a hardness tester, test each one to dial in your temperature.

Every oven runs a little different and your PID controller may be off in temperature so this test will help you to dial in your heat treat.
 
I'd highly suggest making some coupons of a known steel (1080 would be a good choice) and testing them at various temperatures above and below your target temperature. Snap them off in a vice to check out the grain structure. If you have a hardness tester, test each one to dial in your temperature.

Every oven runs a little different and your PID controller may be off in temperature so this test will help you to dial in your heat treat.

I’ve never done it, but you can get salts that melt at specific temps.
 
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