Heat treat - questions to ask

Joined
Feb 9, 2000
Messages
1,865
One of the heat treaters I queried recently sent me the following and I'd be interested in comments. He obviously is knowledgable and I know he is a stickler for detail. The prices are Canadian dollars. One concern I have is that he contracts out the cryo. I read somewhere that the heat treat, cryo and temper should follow each other almost immediately.

"Hi Rob,

Thanks for responding to my post.
I know $20.00 bucks ($15.00, with 5 or more) sounds high for the heat
treating, but there is a few things to consider here. With the salt heat
treating one does not get any pitting, as with a atmospheric heat treat,
this means less time to finish the blade in the long run. Also there is
a minimal chance of warping and one can finish the blades to easily 600
grit, again it is easier to clean the blade when its in the un-hardened
stage.
100 % transformation of austerities and a controlled martemper with my
system is ensured. One does not rely on a secondary hardness cycle for
this. Blade performance increases dramatically with the martempering.
Few things to consider with the cryogenic treatment. Do your blades get
taken down to -310 F? Also do they get ramped down to temperature? If
the blades don't get cooled down 1 degree per minute to -310 F and also
warmed up to room temperature there will be thermal shock to the blades.
This shows up as stress cracks around grind lines and holes. In most
places one can not see them with the naked eyes? This can result in
blade that will develop cracks over time and then will eventually fail.

This is just some questions I would ask myself or your heat treater.
After all, your reputation goes out with every blade you make."

Any comments or other questions I should be asking are appreciated.




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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
Rob: Iuse Argon Inert Atmosphere in my process, And never get pitting, But thates another story.Your Heat Treater is correct, MarQuench and or rapid gas Quench is vary important, This will mean less retained Austinite after quench. As far as how soon after quench should go to sub-zero, This question is very controversial.Acording to my Metalurgist Martinsitic ST\STL. such as 440-C, ATS\34, BG\42, 154\CM, Should be started down as soon as possible after quench. On Tool Steels such as D-2, A-2, 10-V, 3V, Etc. Should be given a snap temper at about 350 Deg. F. for 1 hr. Befor you take it down. Your Heat Treater is also right when he says Blades should be ramed down ,and up to prevent Thermal Shock.Not onlyyour reputation but your Heat treaters reputation goes out with every blade you make. Remember a knife is a tooland should built, heattreated, And used for a spacific job. Hope I have been some help Paul.
 
He's talking mainland english Tom. It's all code.

He wants to buy a car. Either the model ST or STL (luxury model). 440-C refers to the 440 commando engine from the old Plymouth GTX. ATS-34 refers to the All Terrain Suspension package and BG 42 - well that's obvious isn't it?

biggrin.gif




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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
If I may, I have a question about quenching...I saw a shop picture where a fellow was using a water cooled clamp made from flat metal plates, to quench and straighten blades at the same time...

Is this practical in most shops?

How does this work compared to oil quenching?

Is this just for stainless or does this work on 5160 or 1084...

How do you quench BG-42 or 440C for example?

Welcome to the forums...

Running Dog



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Running Dog Knife Company
mmurphy@premier1.net

www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
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