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Heat treating 01?
- Thread starter L6steel
- Start date
Michael, here is the information from the ASTM manual:
O1 AISI
Carbon 0.85 to 1.00
Manganese 1.00 to 1.40
Silicon 0.50 Max
Nickel 0.30 Max
Chromium 0.40 to 0.60
Vanadium 0.30 Max
Tungsten 0.40 to 0.60
High dimensional stability during heat-treating. Relatively shallow hardening.
Forging max heat 1950 degrees F.
Do not forge below 1555 degrees F.
Normalizing - heat to 1600 F and cool in air. Hold from 15 minutes to 1 hour for large sections.
Annealing heat to 1400 to 1455 F. Small parts at lower temperature and large parts at higher temperature. Holding time is approximately 1 to 4 hours depending on part size.
Hardening heat slowly, preheat to 1200 F. Austenitize at 1455 to 1500 F for 10 to 30 minutes and quench in oil. Hardness will be 63 to 65 HRC.
Tempering temper at 345 to 500 F for a hardness of 62 to 57 HRC. 345 to 400 F is most commonly used tempering range.
I use a lot of O1 and find that 350 - 375 is about right for a working blade. When I go to 400 I get a little deformation of the edge when doing the brass rod test. When you quench, move the blade gently up and down or forward and backward, depending on your tank configuration. Do no move the blade side to side to prevent warping.
O1 AISI
Carbon 0.85 to 1.00
Manganese 1.00 to 1.40
Silicon 0.50 Max
Nickel 0.30 Max
Chromium 0.40 to 0.60
Vanadium 0.30 Max
Tungsten 0.40 to 0.60
High dimensional stability during heat-treating. Relatively shallow hardening.
Forging max heat 1950 degrees F.
Do not forge below 1555 degrees F.
Normalizing - heat to 1600 F and cool in air. Hold from 15 minutes to 1 hour for large sections.
Annealing heat to 1400 to 1455 F. Small parts at lower temperature and large parts at higher temperature. Holding time is approximately 1 to 4 hours depending on part size.
Hardening heat slowly, preheat to 1200 F. Austenitize at 1455 to 1500 F for 10 to 30 minutes and quench in oil. Hardness will be 63 to 65 HRC.
Tempering temper at 345 to 500 F for a hardness of 62 to 57 HRC. 345 to 400 F is most commonly used tempering range.
I use a lot of O1 and find that 350 - 375 is about right for a working blade. When I go to 400 I get a little deformation of the edge when doing the brass rod test. When you quench, move the blade gently up and down or forward and backward, depending on your tank configuration. Do no move the blade side to side to prevent warping.
Michael,
As taught me by Tim Zowada:
Do not over austinitize (too bad you can't watch the O1 austinitize in the digital oven, unless you have a crystal window; I don't and that is why I do O1 in the forge).
Have the quench pre-heated to about 140 degrees F. This is important, as you know, to keep the steel from cooling too quickly and micro fractering.
As stated above, quench by moving the knife in a back and forth 'cutting' motion. Do not be slow about these movements.
Count to about 7 seconds and pull the steel out. It should smoke but not flash. If any part flashes return for less than a second and pull. Try to achieve a quench of about 350 F.
Let air cool to no less than 125 F. but close to that.
Temper - (freeze if that is what you like; I do), temper again.
Roger
With a forge or a window you can see the O1 austinitize. If you can, pull the steel within 10 - 15 seconds after you determine autinization complete. I have to have all lights off to see it happen but have been told experience allows one to see it in sun light.
As taught me by Tim Zowada:
Do not over austinitize (too bad you can't watch the O1 austinitize in the digital oven, unless you have a crystal window; I don't and that is why I do O1 in the forge).
Have the quench pre-heated to about 140 degrees F. This is important, as you know, to keep the steel from cooling too quickly and micro fractering.
As stated above, quench by moving the knife in a back and forth 'cutting' motion. Do not be slow about these movements.
Count to about 7 seconds and pull the steel out. It should smoke but not flash. If any part flashes return for less than a second and pull. Try to achieve a quench of about 350 F.
Let air cool to no less than 125 F. but close to that.
Temper - (freeze if that is what you like; I do), temper again.
Roger
With a forge or a window you can see the O1 austinitize. If you can, pull the steel within 10 - 15 seconds after you determine autinization complete. I have to have all lights off to see it happen but have been told experience allows one to see it in sun light.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,179
Roger, what's the visual cue for austentizing? Thanks,
Dave
Dave