Heat Treating 1095 Straight Forward........

Battle Creek Knives

Battle Creek Knives

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
4,355
not to beat a dead horse but I'm wanting some straight forward thoughts.. I've read archives and sticky posts here and googled as well about heat treating 1095... just to have a bunch of different numbers/theory's thrown out there and cloud my thoughts..

I have a bunch of Aldo's 1095 that I would like to use..

here's my limited understanding regarding stock quenching.. in its simplest form..

heat to 1475-1500 soak 5 min

quench immediately (1sec) in fast oil 130*

count to 7 (in quench) and let cool (room temp)

temper at 400* (immediately after cooling room temp.)

I know there's much more to it especially with trial/error/testing, but a lot I have read is regarding forging 1095, then normalizing etc..

for bar stock is this the recommended approach??


ETA: on a side note, I've been playing with 1084,01,5160 etc and noticed when I try the generic method of passing the file its fine and skates when held parallel and raised 10* but when it hits the spine or very edge it drags a little, I assume this is normal because I can probably get the file to bite a production edge..
 
Last edited:
5 minutes should be minimum and you may need to raise your tempering temps but that is an excellent starting point. When file testing before tempering you shouldn't be able to file a groove in the edge. You can also tell a lot by the sound.
 
Thats pretty much the way I do my 1095. I bring the steel to 1490 then do a 10 minute soak before quenching in Parks50. The I temper for 2 two hour cycles at 425. This usually gives me a RC between 58-60.
You have to remember that this is what works in my ovens, and even though I do my best to ensure the temp readings are accurate they may differ from the actual temp.
Guess that confused you I know it did me, what I'm saying is use the data as a guide and test your blades until you figure out what works best in your equipment.
 
That will work well. Remember that1095 has been used for blades for a very long time ! The big problem is annealing !
 
I use 1475F(15min soak, 10-12 count in the oil) and 425F-450F depending on the intended purpose of the blade.

I think it is important to mention that some oils recommend different operating temperatures.... 130deg is not always the case. Houghton Quench K is 140-160F


mete said:
That will work well. Remember that1095 has been used for blades for a very long time ! The big problem is annealing !
Click to expand...

Quoted and emphasized.... This is VERY important to the vermiculite/woodash/leave-it-in-the-forge guys.

Mete.... What can someone do if they suspect the "rogue carbon in the grain boundries" problem?
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys,

I will play within the parameters mentioned and see what works best for me. I just wanted to make sure I had a decent understanding with bar stock..
 
Yeah.... you've got it.

1475F-1500F
Soak
Fast Oil
Temper soon after you can hold it comfortably.

Sounds easy, doesn't it? Again... watch the ANNEAL.
 
aa1pd said:
Just want to make sure I've got this right. So for 1095 you don't anneal you just normalize?

George
Click to expand...

Yes, about 3 times at progressively lower temps., the last cycle being just below non magnetic. That should make it soft enough to file, drill, etc... without any problems in the grain.
 
… If there’s any doubt what state the 1095 is in when you start, run it up to a forging heat, soak it a few minutes and beat on it with hammer a few dozen times,… that’ll bust it all up, 'break it in", get it all into solution and drive off any evil spirits.

That's what I usually do with my 1095. ;)

(Beating optional)
 
Last edited:
3 cycle of normalize will get fine structure, however the steel might not be soft enough for mechining.

using conditioning or simply quenching+high temperature(20~30°C below a1) tempering can also effectively replace annealing. and the carbide are most likely in the size of supper fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top