heat-treating a sword

Bruce Bump

Bruce Bump

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
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OK Ive made a sword 22" plus the tang. It wont fit in my oven. It will fit in my propane forge with both end doors off.It is 18" long so the blade sticks out both ends. How do I heat it evenly from hilt to tip to 1500 degrees. I have a pyrometer to keep tabs on the heat. I can adjust my forge controls to maintain the correct temp but should I keep the blade moving in and out or maybe put it in a cast iron pipe and put the pipe with the sword in it in the forge. Maybe close off both ends of the pipe to hold a more even heat. Please dont tell me to send it off and have it done. Im looking for good ideas and advice here. Thanks, Bruce ps By the way, did I mention it is damascus?
 
Cut 4" off the end of the blade.
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I'd just move it back and forth, or ,gotta few firebricks or extra Kaowool to lengthen the forge temporarily.
 
Yes I have bricks and kao wool. Maybe thats what I should do. You didnt like the pipe idea?
 
Bruce, I have not used the pipe method, I don't know what it's purpose is for. But you would still have to move the pipe forth and back or extend the forge. I would think it would be awkward to check on the heat in the sword. Also what was in the pipe? You may have some junk in the pipe you don't want on the blade. MY .02
 
Bruce, I had another thought. With theshorter forgeit will be easier to move the tip, out of the heat for a while, as it will heat faaster than the body of the sword. This may be beneficial. Are you doing a clay coat?
 
The sword is Twist damascus of 1084/15n20 It is annealed and normalized. It is rough ground and ready for the hardening. My pipe idea is to use a pipe with the tip end closed off with the blade in it. I can control the temp in the pipe with my pyrometer probe in the pipe. My thought here is that the temperature will be more uniform after the pipe is at solution temp. therefore not over heating the tip. Im not going to use clay as I want the whole blade hard, not just the edge. With my forge I can adjust the flame by watching the digital temp meter (pyrometer)Am I making sense at all? Bruce
 
Chuck, I want to go to Tacoma but I dont have a table also only have a couple to sell. Id like to go to look but dont think my wife will let me. We are saving to go on vacation on the Ore. Coast.
I will post a picture when and if I get this thing done. Bruce
 
Bruce, that might work,I'd consider running a mockup of somthing other than the damascus. Maybe just grind a tip and few inches of edge on a piece of stock to check the procedure. When I used to heat treat pressure vessels there were always hot spots. The pipe may work to equalize the heat. We used a similar method to heat treat certain parts that were subject to warping, plus a nitrogen purge to reduce scaling.
 
MikeS Thanks for staying here on the sword ordeal. I had another thought. You mentioned kao wool and fire bricks. Why couldnt I just make a temparary deeper door with them for my heat-treating oven? Maybe better than temparary, I may want to do another sword someday. Bruce
 
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