heat-treating help! (damasteel)

Burchtree

Burchtree

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I've got a project due before Christmas, but it is Damasteel and I don't have the capabilities (really thought I'd have an oven by this time :(). Any good sources? Anyone want to earn a little extra dough for their services? (I've got the HT specs). :o
 
RWL-34 is predominant in Damasteel. Some (it seems like forever now) time ago I did extensive HT experimentation on RWL-34. I'll try to look the thread up and post a link here. It is a very lengthy thread.

Here is the link: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280164&highlight=rwl-34

It is so lengthy and even somewhat confusing to keep up with; I'll tell you what: If you find someone to HT it for you and IF he would like what I boiled it down to for my own HT I'll be glad to share it with him. Good luck.

Michael, I would offer - being you - but I just can't primarily because my dewar is dry and I am in stock for the next few months that does not require cryogenic treatment. I will not HT steel such as yours without cryogenically treating it and I am looking at about 70 bucks to fill the dewar and just to let it set and evaporate before I need it again doesn't work well. Again, anyone wishing to do it I am very happy to share my results.

RL
 
Thanks Roger - I've got a man that can do the heat-treating. If you get a chance, could you shoot me the recipe? I read that thread, but wasn't sure which route to go! :)

michael@burchtreeblades.com
 
Michael
Here is a link to the Damasteel website the heat treat info is in pdf.

Regards Bob:D
sorry forgot the link
 
rlinger said:
RWL-34 is predominant in Damasteel. Some (it seems like forever now) time ago I did extensive HT experimentation on RWL-34. I'll try to look the thread up and post a link here. It is a very lengthy thread.

Here is the link: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280164&highlight=rwl-34

It is so lengthy and even somewhat confusing to keep up with; I'll tell you what: If you find someone to HT it for you and IF he would like what I boiled it down to for my own HT I'll be glad to share it with him. Good luck.

Michael, I would offer - being you - but I just can't primarily because my dewar is dry and I am in stock for the next few months that does not require cryogenic treatment. I will not HT steel such as yours without cryogenically treating it and I am looking at about 70 bucks to fill the dewar and just to let it set and evaporate before I need it again doesn't work well. Again, anyone wishing to do it I am very happy to share my results.

RL
Click to expand...
wow now that was some real reading makes me wander more about the way im doing my 3V
thanks for all that work and info
butch
 
Here ya go (and thanks Dan for posting that but I have since refined it):

RWL-34 Bushcraft Scandi grind about 5/32 max spine thickness
------------------------------------------------------------

Stress relieve (after grinding and ready to HT): 1200 F / 2 hr., oven cool to < 800 F, still air cool

Preheat: 1400 F / 7 min. (ramp to preheat moderately)

Austenitize (ramp from preheat to austenitize as quickly as furnace allows): 1950 F / 15 min.

Rapid air quench

Snap Temper: 325 F / 1 hr.

Deep Cryo => 12 hr.

Temper: 500 F / 2 hr.

Temper: 450 F / 2 hr
--------------------

The blade used in this example tested 60 HRc after final temper. The tip of tang (about 0.080 to 0.100 inch thick - a hammer ended bushcraft) tested 58.5 HRc and it was the part of blade closest to the furnace door, the coolest part of furnace. Another minute or two on the soak I would not worry alot about but much longer than that could cause brittleness. I would stay, for a blade of this size, within the 15 to 16 minute soak time. Ramp moderately enough to preheat to ensure all cross section is at preheat when preheat is attained. I would not preheat much longer than about 7 minutes but no less than either. After preheat get to austenitizing temperature as quickly as allowed. I would use no less than forced air quenchant and plate quenching is fine.

I believe there is nothing sacride about the oven cool on the stress relieve. I do that because it doesn't hurt and it also helps from me accidentally bending the blade by carrying around the shop to hang up to cool when it is at 1200 F. So I take a few extra minutes to let it cool in the oven before handling. Also, it is arguable that the stress relieve is necessary since the remainder of heat treat may do that anyhow. I won't debate that. I do it because I don't know any better and it don't hurt to and I sleep better for doing it.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Here ya go (and thanks Dan for posting that but I have since refined it):

RL
Click to expand...
so noted and up dated Roger
let me know if you want anything changed..:)
 
sorta a bump did i read right that i can use this heat treat to get me close to ats34
as i have just got a bar to see how i like it
btw is the search ever going to be running well
thanks
butch
 
butcher_block said:
sorta a bump did i read right that i can use this heat treat to get me close to ats34
as i have just got a bar to see how i like it
btw is the search ever going to be running well
thanks
butch
Click to expand...
I believe the two are the same one is from powder and the other is rolled.
as is 154CM it gets more technical but very close in HT..
 
ok thanks i thought that was the case
i just had to try it
there are a few different heat treats listed for it and i trust all you guys more then most of the web
butch
 
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