Heat treating in the kitchen

S

sandness

Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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27
I've tried a few different heat sources without spending a nickel. Charcoal is tough for me to see the color, and I just can't get my propane torch to heat evenly- no surprise. Playing around with the stove a little today, and I was able to get some pretty decent heat out of one of the burners.



I moved the top plate on the burner so the gas exits in one, broad area rather than in a circle around the burner. Made the forceful, rushing sound of the gas burning. It heated up my blade pretty well, imo. Just the edge area was up to temp, which is all I'm worried about. I think this will be my technique until I decide to attack a bigger knife.

I'm a anxious for it to finish tempering, as I suspect I may even get a faint hamon (if the distinct line I see between red-hot and black means anything- maybe not:o ) Anyway, should turn out alright for knife #2.

Steel- 1/16" From 10" 200 tooth non-carbide tipped saw blade (research didn't come up with much, perhaps 1050?)
Brine quenched, tempering at 375 for 1hr. - will see what happens.
 
Alright, my second knive and I've learned my lesson. No more mystery steel. Sanding down the scale revealed a few cracks.

So, if I'm going to buys some steel, what would be good for a beginner? I've read 5160 is pretty forgiving to heat treat. I see Admiral steel has it, but they only have 13/64" and 1/4" (which seem thick) and sell it in 20'+ lengths (which is overkill as I'm a hobbyist making maybe one knife every couple months).

Otherwise, I see they also have 3/32" 1095 in shorter lenghts and annealed. Perhaps that would be a better choice.
 
yes - dispense with the mystery steel and get the right stuff. 1095 is dirt cheap.


Also, see how the very edge of your blade is bright orange/yellow? probably over-heated. Try to get an even color across at least 1/2" of the blade before you quench - should be orange with no yellow.
 
Circular saw blades are commonly L6 or similar.
The heat looks to much in the pict. Check for critical with a magnet. I use 1095 and just 50 F hotter (or there abouts) than non-magnetic is the right temp to quench.

Water may be too fast especially for the thin sections of a knife blade, brine most certainly is. A lot of knife steels quench in oil. This will be smokey and maybe flash fire. If in doubt try in order air, oil, water, brine. That is the order from slowest to fastest. After the quench the steel should be harder that a file. If it's softer go to a faster quench.

Find a copy of "metallurgy theory and practice" by Dell Allen and read the sections on steel and heat treating. You'll learn a lot. You may be able to check it out of your local library or find a used copy.

I'm certain you have more questions now.
Ask away

ron
 
Other choices are O-1, 1095,and 1075. They are all available in short pieces from most knife suppliers (1095 can be a little tricky,so learn on a easier steel).Heat treating in the kitchen can lead to a serious problem if there is a lady who uses the kitchen,too.Better to do it outside with a torch or one brick oven.Brine is way to harsh a quench for almost all knife steels.Use oil.
Stacy
 
son_of_bluegrass said:
Circular saw blades are commonly L6 or similar.
The heat looks to much in the pict. Check for critical with a magnet. I use 1095 and just 50 F hotter (or there abouts) than non-magnetic is the right temp to quench.

Water may be too fast especially for the thin sections of a knife blade, brine most certainly is. A lot of knife steels quench in oil. This will be smokey and maybe flash fire. If in doubt try in order air, oil, water, brine. That is the order from slowest to fastest. After the quench the steel should be harder that a file. If it's softer go to a faster quench.

Find a copy of "metallurgy theory and practice" by Dell Allen and read the sections on steel and heat treating. You'll learn a lot. You may be able to check it out of your local library or find a used copy.

I'm certain you have more questions now.
Ask away

ron
Click to expand...


Speaking from exp if you want to do your heat treat inside warm your oil up as to avoid cracks and move it outside other wise you will stink up the whole house.
 
Looks like my first goal will be to make some sort of simple forge, as oil quenching must be taken outside.
 
son_of_bluegrass said:
Circular saw blades are commonly L6 or similar.
Click to expand...

From what I was told, this is true only if they don't have carbide tips. I got this info and haven't really been able to verify it, but a guy on the Bladesmith's forum http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=4611&hl=sawblade said "Blades WITH inserts, brazed or induction-welded teeth are *usually* some variation on AE203DE... you could consider that mild steel with nickle for anything you'd want to use it for. Good available scrap metal to make pattern-welded fittings with"

Also see:
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=4453&hl=sawblade
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=3045&hl=sawblade

I have some really expensive Leitz blades I was given after they were no longer serviceable, but I don't know if I can get a quality knife out of them. It won't stop me from trying and experimenting though. I have to learn somehow.

Zac
 
I'm still using my one brick forge ($50 Knife shop, Wayne Goddard) and propane torch (I'm using 01 tool steel).

I read on a thread that if you draw the temper in your kitchen oven, make sure you clean off ALL the quenchant, especially if you use oil (5w-20w pepboys, preconditioned 3000 miles in a 99 windstar) like I do. Burning mortor oil does not go over well with my wife and it makes the food cooked in the oven taste funny. I have a dedicated toaster oven for tempering and heating Kydex.

Ric
 
You can get 01 pretty cheap from www.toolanddie.com . You'll want to quench 01 in oil. Canola oil or peanut oil are a bit more expensive than old transmission fluid, but they don't stink up the house if you temper indoors.

I'll be doing four blades this way later this afternoon:)

Great way to finish vacation.
 
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