Heat Treating on the Cheap

Joined
Mar 6, 2022
Messages
317
How does one effectively manage a heat treat with just a forge, or just a torch? Either 1/2 brick or torch. When I look up specific steel specs, it will say something like xxxx degrees, soak 5 minutes, quench (in one medium or another). Then temper at xxx degrees for 2 hours. Usually giving different temperatures for different rockwell scores.

The usual tutorial will speak of a magnet and the piece losing its attraction to the magnet. However, does that mean it has reached the austenitizing point that it would after obtaining said temperature and soaking? Or does that mean it has just reached the temperature, and now needs to be soaked for 5 minutes?

Again, my whole real world experience in this was making a cold chisel in HS. We forged that out of octagonal steel so it was not too many blows of the hammer to shape it :) But, they said stick it in the forge until it is orange to bright red, then pull it out and quench it in the bucket. I swear there was water in it, but that was a long time ago. Then we shined it up with steel wool, and heated the base of the chisel until we saw "straw" color at the edge. Then "congratulations, you made a thing!" I kind of wish I still had that, I'd love to see if it worked as well as I remember.

But no tutorial or video on HT knives makes it look this simple. So I assume there is either something I am missing, or everyone is out there sending Paragon $2K to get started, and Mr Volcano be d@^&ed
 
Heat treating in a forge requires a lot of practice. The diagram I posted shows the color variations of steel as it’s heated up. Keep in mind that heat treating some simple carbon steels in a forge can be done, but you are better off selecting steels with a more forgiving temperature range.
4740-FCE9-80-DA-496-F-95-F2-994-D9389-F36-F.jpg
 
Last edited:
Bradley, tell us the steel you are using and the equipment you have. Most carbon steel can be HTed in a forge or with a torch. It makes a difference what the steel is, though.
After we know the steel type, we can give you step-by-step instructions.
 
does that mean it has reached the austenitizing point that it would after obtaining said temperature and soaking? Or does that mean it has just reached the temperature, and now
As mentioned above, this depends on the specific alloys/steel in question.
 
The diagram I posted shows the color variations of steel as it’s heated up.
I think the lower part of the diagram (575 F and lower) is more showing the temper colors that will show up on shiny steel like Bradley talks about here:
Then we shined it up with steel wool, and heated the base of the chisel until we saw "straw" color at the edge
And once you got that color (indicating that the steel is around 450F) you probably immediately dunked the chisel in water to prevent it from getting any hotter and turning brown/purple.
 
Live alone ?

Heavy steel plate on a stovetop burner

knife on top of that.

temp crayons to judge temperature
'Tempilstik' is a trade name for temperature indicating crayons.


Quench oil steel container in the steel sink



NO water anywhere

This can be done safely, or this can burn down your place and the entire apartment block.
Not kidding


Man Inspired by ‘Forged in Fire’ Burns Down 28 Properties​



1-min-5.jpg
 
Live alone ?

Heavy steel plate on a stovetop burner

knife on top of that.

temp crayons to judge temperature
'Tempilstik' is a trade name for temperature indicating crayons.


Quench oil steel container in the steel sink



NO water anywhere

This can be done safely, or this can burn down your place and the entire apartment block.
Not kidding


Man Inspired by ‘Forged in Fire’ Burns Down 28 Properties



1-min-5.jpg

Oops...
 
Back
Top