Heat Treating Services for 1095???

J

Jakeiscrazy

Joined
Jun 24, 2009
Messages
5
Any recommendations for 1095 heat treating? I'm your run of the mill student so I would like to keep price as low as possible. Thanks in advance!:thumbup:
 
Delbert Ealy has done a few for me in the past. He used to charge a WOPPiNG $5 a blade! He is here on the forums and is a super nice and knowledgeable guy. Stacy is in Norfolk,Va. Not sure how far you two are apart??
 
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It won't be $5 a blade but I have used Peter's a lot with excellent results. Top of the line treating and service.
 
Posting some info on the blade will help. Also completing your profile will give some insight to others about you.
For instance, you said that you are a student. That could be elementary school, or finishing your PHD at age 40.

I'm in Norfolk, and have family in Richmond. Send me an email if you wish, and lets see if we can get this blade hardened.
 
Sorry for the delayed response.

The blade is a little over 9 inches. Its actually made out of a dull Save Edge fairer's rasp. It did a little research and I understand it to be 1095. It probably needs to be annealed fully first. I'm a high school student so I'm little budget conscience.


I'm in Norfolk, and have family in Richmond. Send me an email if you wish, and lets see if we can get this blade hardened.
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PM or email? If email whats your email? I could ship to you if needed.

Also for information purposes and mostly just showing off here is a picture.(I'm currently taking name suggestions lol)
227202_2096549536246_1320593345_32581949_2248625_n.jpg
 
You seem to still have a good bit of filing to do on the bevels. Also, don't forget to drill the rivet holes in the tang pre-HT. It may be the camera angle, but there is something that looks....Blocky...about the knife shape. Maybe a full side shot will look different.

The carbon content of farriers rasps varies greatly, and any HT will be a crap shoot. Most folks do the HT using the procedures for 1095, but that doesn't mean the steel is 1095.
 
bladsmth said:
You seem to still have a good bit of filing to do on the bevels. Also, don't forget to drill the rivet holes in the tang pre-HT. It may be the camera angle, but there is something that looks....Blocky...about the knife shape. Maybe a full side shot will look different.

The carbon content of farriers rasps varies greatly, and any HT will be a crap shoot. Most folks do the HT using the procedures for 1095, but that doesn't mean the steel is 1095.
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I thinks it's mostly the angle I'll get few more shots of it ASAP. The knife's bevel is ground to a little less than a dimes with. I have heard not to grind it all the way as it may cause warping? Any insight would be appreciated.
 
Yes, that is a good edge thickness to shoot for pre-HT. What I was noticing is that the bevels look like they don't go very far up the side, and this gives the knife a "Sharpened bar of steel" look. Making the bevels go farther up will increase the cutting efficiency as well as the looks. As it is it looks sort of like you just filed an edge on a rasp.

I'm not criticizing the knife, just making some advise comments on shape and style. The knife may look better in a different angle shot.
 
Jakeiscrazy said:
Also for information purposes and mostly just showing off here is a picture.(I'm currently taking name suggestions lol)
227202_2096549536246_1320593345_32581949_2248625_n.jpg
Click to expand...

There is a saying on here, "Without pictures it didn't happen." Never be afraid to post pictures. Most people on here like pictures.

Is the edge 9" or the whole blade 9"? If the whole blade is 9" long, your handle is way too short. If the edge is 9", then the blade is probably 13" long? Either way, the handle looks way too short. There looks to be a sharp point where the finger groove meets the handle. It needs to be rounded off or it will dig into your fingers.
 
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