Heat treating thin stock

[CUTS LIKE A KRIS]

I recently bought some 1/16" 01 and wanted to know how best to prevent warpage when heat treating. I will be making mostly scalpels and paring knives but am worried about warpage as I am VERY new to heat treating. Is the soak time more critical because it is so thin? Was also wondering if sandwiching the steel between 2 plates of mild steel (in foil package) is a technique used to keep em straight, and if so how must quench be accomplished. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[Don Hanson III]

Short blades that thin shouldn't be a problem. I have done many folder blades around 1/16'', I use a coffee can forge heated with a propane torch for small blades. If they warp, I just straighten them right out of the quench, you have a few min.s to do this and they will bend easy, so don't over bend when sraightening. Also if you overheat they will most likely warp, so watch the temp closely.

 

[Bushrat]

I am also new to heat treating, but last night I did my first run with 1/16 01.
Did not have any warping problems. I did hold the heat at 1200' for 10 min. before continuing on to higher temps.
Good luck

 

[C L Wilkins]

Two thoughts on this...

You don't have to grind it so thin to start with and grind it more after heat treat. Just don't get it too hot while grinding.

Another way is to use a torch to heat treat the blade. If the heat is uneven, it WILL warp so that is one thing to watch.

Having done either of those has worked for me.

Craig

 

[Gossman Knives]

If you're using O1 you will have to grind after HT anyway to remove decarb. I don't use 1/16 stock often but when I do, I just profile the blade, HT and temper it then do the blade grinding making sure you keep it cool. You can straighten a warped blade right after quenching before it cools down too much.
Scott

 

[Arthur Washburn]

Was also wondering if sandwiching the steel between 2 plates of mild steel (in foil package) is a technique used to keep em straight, and if so how must quench be accomplished. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

This isn't a good Idea. The foil will act as an insulator and will not allow the temp to drop below the nose of the curve quick enough. Normally you only use foil with stainless steel. I know that there are some who advocate opening the foil removing the blade and quenching. I have never been able to do this.