Heat treating

Joined
May 29, 2004
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I need some AEB-L heat treated. I went to JT's website today and find that he has apparently stopped treating small batches. Who are you all using for heat treating?
 
That ain't how it works. If you want to heat treat a blade, there's only one way to do it right: differential hardening and an auto temper.

What you do is jack up the back of your pickup and take off a tire, so now you have a steel wheel up in the air. Now you fire it up, throw it into gear, and put a brick on the gas pedal. Make sure to put the brick on the pedal after you put it into gear.

Now you squat down there by the steel wheel which should be spinning nice and good, and you start rubbing the knife blade on the wheel until it starts glowing red. As soon as it's glowing red halfway up from the blade edge, you stick it into a watermelon for exactly 8 seconds, then pull it out and stick it in the exhaust pipe for a bit for an auto tempering.

Now you got the best knife knife you can get.

This is why it's called differential hardening and auto tempering.
 
That's how the Smokey looking hamon gets into the steel... the smoke from the burning rubber gets pressed on there!
 
There are a lot of knifemakers in Florida who might help you out. Have you checked with any of them? There are several Knife groups in Florida.
 
S Steve Beckwith Hi Steve. I do heat treating of AEBL for my own personal pieces. I might be able to help you out with a few pieces if you can't find help, but I am in Ohio (so shipping involved). Stacy brings up a great point for establishing a local connection. Shoot me a message if you want to discuss.

P.S> Once your tired of all this, I recommend Evenheat knife ovens :)
 
So I did a search for Florida knife makers and my first stop was http://www.floridaknifemakers.org/. That brought up a screen that locked up my browser, I had to shut down my laptop to get out of it so beware everyone. I'll keep looking. JV, I appreciate your offer and I may very well take you up on it. I have 7- 3" blades and 7 springs and one 12"OAL kitchen knife that I was looking to have treated. I am strictly a hobby knife maker and I do my own heat treating with carbon steel but I don't have a hardness tester so I follow prescribed heat/soak cycles and hope for the best. When it comes to stainless I would prefer to deal with someone that has the experience and equipment to get it done right.
 
That ain't how it works. If you want to heat treat a blade, there's only one way to do it right: differential hardening and an auto temper.

What you do is jack up the back of your pickup and take off a tire, so now you have a steel wheel up in the air. Now you fire it up, throw it into gear, and put a brick on the gas pedal. Make sure to put the brick on the pedal after you put it into gear.

Now you squat down there by the steel wheel which should be spinning nice and good, and you start rubbing the knife blade on the wheel until it starts glowing red. As soon as it's glowing red halfway up from the blade edge, you stick it into a watermelon for exactly 8 seconds, then pull it out and stick it in the exhaust pipe for a bit for an auto tempering.

Now you got the best knife knife you can get.

This is why it's called differential hardening and auto tempering.
Thats friction forging, it only works with D2 steel not AEB-L.
 
Thats friction forging, it only works with D2 steel not AEB-L.
It works with aebl too but you don’t need as much friction, a hamster wheel with a gerbil works nicely and gives you a perfect hamon in the shape of whispy lines matching the spacing on the wheel, more bars=more lines. I feel like we need a thread going… how to heat treat steels wrong answers only!
 
I need some AEB-L heat treated. I went to JT's website today and find that he has apparently stopped treating small batches. Who are you all using for heat treating?
Jeff Mutz 909-923-7477. He has been treating my AEB-L for 7 years. Works with true Grit in California. Love the guy!! Taught me a ton over the years
 
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