Heat Treating

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK all, first off, I ahve to declare from beginning of this thread that I am VERY much of a beginner. But I did look through threads here, and didn't seem to quite find the information I'm looking for.

First off, I do not do this as anything more than a hobby, and am still not sure I will, though I'm thinking about it. As I have not yet finished my first knife though, that's still up for grabs.

Anyways, I was following directions that a friend had written up for a way to make knives at home with supplies that most people already had, including using a file as the steel. I know this does not give the best alloy, and there are many other problems with this(and he does make beautiful, extremely good knives, so obviously he's doing something different than method that made this ugly piece of steel. :)

But anyways, I figured this would give me an inexpensive way ot try my hand at knife making, and more importgantly, just the great feeling of making a quality product for myself, even if it is ugly.

But enough of precursors here. After annealing the file, and shaping the blade, my next step was to heat treat and then temper. The heat treating was performed in a grill, with a hair dryer to help force air over the coals and heat them up. While I got the "knife" up to a nice glowing orange over most of the steel(I did not get the tip heated up properly, so I am going to re-heat treat this anwyays), it did not reach a point where it was no longer magnetic, which I was told was one of indications of steel reaching it's transformation point. Two questions. One, not to doubt him, but is this is a good indicator? Secondly, if I do have it nicely glowing orange but not actually hot enough to not attract a magnet, is it still going to achieve a decent heat treat? (I quench it in transmission fluid and will temper it back down in an oven). Again, I know there are other methods for these steps, just asking about this particular one. So if I do heat it up to this level again, will I still achieve a strong blade, or should I make sure I get it hot enough fo rthe magnet test?
 
Hi there!

You've obviously done some homework and have a desire to do it correctly. :)

First of all, do you have any idea what make the file was and how old it is? Many of the old old files seem to be W-1, a very decent, water-hardening steel. Most of the new imports are case hardened junk steel.

Not to lecture you, but you can buy a 20' bar of 1084 for a few bucks...you'll know exactly what you have, what you need to do with it, and you'll get SEVERAL knives out of it.

Non-magnetic is a fair indicator. Austenitizing temperature varies with the chemical composition of different steels. But with most steels I have found that when done in salt the steel will become non-magnetic about 100-200 degrees before it is at its proper austenitizing temp.

What that tells me, is that you will need to get it non-magnetic and try to hold it for just a short bit longer to get your alloy content diffused into the matrix.

So yea, get it really hot so it won't stick and quench it :D

It could be possible that you might not get it hard in oil. Usually it seems to me that W-1 will harden when quenched in oil, but as a LAST resort for you (unless playing with hamons) you could try it in water. Many steels will harden just fine in water, but it takes very accurate time and temp (and gritted teeth).

But again, I highly recommend you find a local steel supplier and ask them for a price on a stick of something like 1084. It is suprisingly cheap and a GREAT steel when properly treated.

Let us know how it goes!!!
Nick
 
thanks for the response. I plan on ordering myself a stock of steel and brass(for guards, etc) as soon as I can get the extra cash. That probably won't be until next month though(I get paid monthly).

I am unsure as to the age or manufacturer or the file. I have several here, and this one I dont' know. I have several of them though as I said, most at least 5 years old or so(craftsman ones I bought hwile I was working at sears). These first ones, until I can get steel and a belt sander/grinder, are primarily just getting me used to the annealing(which I won't have to do with stock steel, I assume), removing metal, and heat treating/quenching/tempering.
 
Hmmmmm,I wonder who he`s talking about.......
etp777 has shown the passion needed to become a great knifemaker,firstly,he wants to make quality blades,not make a buck.One can certainly make a buck doing this kind of thing but he has to have his ducks in a row and he has to pay his dues it seems to me that the guys who get into knifemaking just to make $$ always seem to fall by the wayside,those who do it for the art or passion of it always seem to be the ones who endure and succeed,if you make a good blade,one thats unique,well built and pleasant to look at,people will beat a path to your door.I`m certainly no pro,I sell just enough to buy new tools,improve the shop a little and keep the materials flowing,I make knives as a hobby,but when you`re done with one you gotta find something to do with it,selling it to someone for a bit more than you`ve got in materials seems like a good idea,that is if someone wants it,I`ve been lucky,every knife I make sells quickly,and there`s always way more guys who want one than I have time to make.
I did a post at assaultweb.net some time ago,giving simple instructions on how to make oneself a decent blade from an old file:
http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000093.html

http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000100.html

http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000101.html

http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000105.html

http://assaultweb.net/ubb/Archives/Archive-000009/HTML/20010716-13-000112.html

etp777 has grabbed the ball and is running with it,I have learned so much myself from this board since that post,I dont use files anymore,I use 1084,1095,and thanks to Ed Fowlers instructions,I`m even using 440c,oil quenched,it really works!!
I`d like to welcome him into our fold,you guys have given me information that has saved countless hours of trial and error,and I thank you,I got him hooked on this art form and now that he`s found his way here,I think he`ll do quite well.
Scott Fulford
 
THanks for the postiive support yet again Scott. And yes, I have your threads, and the "Cheapskates Guide to Making Knives" both saved to my hard drive, and those are still waht I'm working off of, with some of my own variations.

Sadly, I'm still stuck with files until the 16th(pay day), or after that, actually, whenever my order finally comes in. But will be ordering steel and micarta then, if nothing else. hopefully some kydex too if money allows.

But, the files are giving me time to work with my belt grinder(actually waiting for more belts for that too), which is important. getting better already, even though only on number two. I hope to have pictures up by late sunday at the latest. I was hoping to actually be done by tuesday morning, but my carpal tunnel was acting up on sunday and monday, so put off any work. I can grind with carpal tunnel, and did some work on some other ones, but I need to fit the handles to the blade right now, and that is taking hand work, as I want as near a perfect fit. But hopefully I'll be done by next weekend(just cut one handle out, about to cut other), and I'll post a pic that I'm hoping will do you proud. If not, tell me and I'll take the post down. ;)

Anyways, back to work. Just wanted to thank you again. Later all. And thank you to everyone else here too, you've been willing to answer my newbie questions without just telling me to buy a book, as some groups/people would do, and have learned a lot. Also seen that y'all are a great group of guys, and a community that I'm happy to be entering in to, at least as a spectator, even if knife making never works out. Anyways, back to work, still have some time to cut handles and sand them some before I have to go to sleep for school in morning. Later all
 
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