Heavy prying with a Basic #7 and Battle Mistress

Status
Not open for further replies.

Cliff Stamp

BANNED
Joined
Oct 5, 1998
Messages
17,562
I finally got around to doing this mainly because I was showing the blades to a few friends and the question arose as to how strong they were. I didn't actually know. I knew they were supposed to be fairly flexible but strength was one of two areas that I figured that the Busse Combat blades might not rate too highly in.

When I first starting hearing about them I figured that the steel must be highly wear resistant with good ductility. You can't really argue with that, well you could but you would be insane as demonstrations have been done live. So basically I took those properties as a given.

However there are usually consequences to that. Make a steel very ductile and it tends to be very weak. Make a steel very abrasion resistant and it tends to be very brittle. So at first it seemed to be that the INFI blades could very well be brittle and or weak. This was not very likely however as it didn't seem to be a commonly reported problem - but then again that isn't 100% proof of anything.

After using the Battle Mistress and Basic for a short length of time it was readily obvious that neither of those problems were present. While the steel may in fact be able to bend a great deal it is very resistant to being bent in the first place.

I had my brother who was about 180 lbs do pull ups off of the Basic with just the edge supporting it and the handle didn't even flex excessively. I also dug with it and the edge didn't readily chip out. It dented up and rolled - but cam back strong after some steeling.

Back to the question at hand. I didn't really know how strong the blades were. I had done some light work with them and didn't see any major bending, but never strained them seriously. They are supposed to take a good deal of flex so I figured that this would be a safety net as I knew both could go beyond 45 degrees.

So off we go to have a look at the strength of the blades. I passed both blades around and they get lodged in some stumps and pulled on hard. No problems and a lot of wood is being ripped apart. After things settle down I take the basic and stick it halfway in a piece of spruce about 6-7 " across. I mark out 45 degrees and have a few friends watch the mark. I intended to stop if I passed this and look up the angles before going beyond it.

I start pulling and get about 45 with the handle arcing beyond it. This is about as far as I can go so I bounce on it a few times and give up. I repeat this going the other way and it holds fine. I then try a few times to move the blade out so I can get more leverage. However this just tears the wood apart and the stump splits. Nice sound effect.

I move on to the Battle Mistress, and even though it is much longer, I have no luck getting it to reach 45 degrees when it is lodged at the halfway point. It is simply too strong. Againt I try with the point but it just readily breaks the wood apart.

I have also heavily stressed just the edge but since the blades are not differentially tempered it is not overly weak either. Chop the edge stright into a piece of 4x4 and torque down hard and it splits the wood easily. The points will also take very hard stabs and torques into wood as again they are not soft.

So in conclusion Jerry the knives are pretty strong, of course since you made them you probably already knew that.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, one thing about Busse I've figured is that even their short blades are heavy enough to bust open a window with either the point or pommel.
 
Oh come on Cliff, how about a REAL test!
smile.gif
Seriously though, your post's are always informative and impressive...a tad extreem( that is unless you have an agreement with Jerry in case of destruction, an unlimited amount of money or just a penchent for going over the top!) but then, so are Jerry's knives. It's good to know how well one of these blades will perform if the situation arises. Me? I'm just thrilled at how well my Battle Mistress has be doing while performing basic survival skills...when I have a chance to use it as a peton I'm sure I'll think of you!

I've also noticed how enamored you are with sharpening steels. I am a bit reticent to use one as I doubt whether or not I have the requisite skill to wield it properly: what do you think of the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker? I have had good results on my other knives. Do you feel that the angle of the Sharpmaker is appropriate for the Misstress, i.e. should I have to hone the blade rather than just restore the edge, are the course rods up to the task with INFI?

What are your findings regarding the Stainless qualities of INFI steel...I believe I have read in one of your post's refering to a saltwater immersion test and edge demarcation; however, did you find that these bounderies extended to the blade as well, that is given the fact that the blade is not ceramic powder coated?

In addition, what is was your reasoning in cord wrapping on of your Mistress' handles? I find mine to be slightly thin in profile and had wondered about a nondestrustive way to create wider palm swells... it had never occured to me to wrap a handle with slabs.

In any event, keep the faith with your tests
Screwtape
 
Come on Cliff, quit babying around with them, you know that you will have to hang that aircraft carrier in the harbor off the BM sooner or later. We will then know how tough the BM really is.
 
I Just did a little test of my own. The knife is a Busse basic five. We have all heard of the drop test, where the blade is dropped on the tip from a few feet to see how it holds up. Well I did the following:
I dropped the knife from five feet onto a cement floor. No problem here, then I dropped it from seven feet, again no problem as expected. Then I decided to stop playing around and took it to twenty five feet, dropped it, and guess what, No problem. So I did it again. Nothing wrong except very minimal scratches to the tip which I sharpened out in about twenty strokes on the coarse dmt. Next I decided to chop wrought Iron. It held up as I thought it would by only compressing the steel and rolling it to the side. I must add I only chopped about five times and moved on to the well known flex test. As Cliff stated It fared well, no effect. That was it. I'm done testing Busse knives. Now it's time to collect them one by one. The entire combat line and then the variants. Later, Jeff

BTW: The real test was my own personal useage over the last few months, in which it fared very well. These tests were done for fun, but I thought I'd pass them along. Jeff
 
Nice thread gents...keep it goin'!!!
smile.gif




------------------
Andy Prisco, Manager
Sharper Instinct, LLC
Phone: 1-201-493-2469
Orders-Toll Free: 1-877-557-5200
Fax: 1-201-493-2039
Visa & Mastercard Accepted

Authorized Dealers:
Busse Combat Knives and Big East Traditional Bows

Professional Shooting Svcs: Corporate Training and Stress Mgmt.

Busse Combat Variant Temp. HQ http://home.earthlink.net/~gregrnamin/andy/sharper.htm

Sharper Instinct Website www.sharperinstinct.com
 
I am curious, are people subjecting Busse knives to more extreme types of tests just to see how far they will go? Dropping it from 20 feet on purpose and chopping wrought iron appears to be a heavier level of test. I realize many people will push the edge of the envelope with several different makes, but do these tests mean Busse has brought a bigger envelope to the party?

I think testing is good and one of the reason I enjoy this forum. Are we creating new tests just for Busse knives?

What will we find to chop next?
 
Uncle :

what do you think of the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker

I think it is one of the worst approaches to sharpening you can take. There are two grits used and two preset angles. Different blade materials need to be sharpened with different abrasives to reach optimal performance and the angle needs to be adjusted so as to match the level of stress the knife will see and of course suit the abilities of the steel. The Sharpmaker will also remove the convex part of the bevel on the blade.

The Sharpmaker is a very nice piece of equipment to start with and has several advantages. However I would suggest that as soon as possible you start to work with freehand methods like a strop and a smooth steel as well as buy a cheap very abrasive hone (SiC Japanese waterstone would be a good choice), and try some freehand grinding.

As for a smooth steel, it is fairly difficult to mangle up the edge on a blade with it - I have tried intentionally. The only way I can figure to do it would be to press down hard with the steel right on top of the edge. You would have to be pretty out there to think this would be productive, and probably shouldn't be around sharp objects in the first place.

A smooth steel's main function is to align the metal in the edge so that it is straight up (I also think it has a sort of rippling effect which I will check out when I get a decent microscope). All you do is simply stroke the steel down the blade going away from the edge. Start with a few strokes at the bevel angle and then finish with a few slightly above it. You need to work both sides.

what is was your reasoning in cord wrapping on of your Mistress' handles

The handle was too thin without it and the grip was not as secure or as ergonomic as I would like. I first tried high friction tape, that resulted in the most secure grip I have ever seen. It would literally bond to my hand. Of course it did this by holding tightly to my skin - which meant that if I did any amount of chopping (20-30 minutes) my palm would start to get irritated. I tried for two weeks to see if I could adapt to this with no luck. However if you ever want an extreme non-slippery handle this is the way to go.

The new grips on the Busse Combat blades look to have addressed exactly these problems and should be very secure and ergonomic.

[rusting]

did you find that these bounderies extended to the blade as well

It was with the Basic, and M-INFI, but yes there was less damage depth wise on the Basic. Most of the coating had been worn off. And for those that don't think rust will go under a coating and take it off. I would advise you to try this. After every soak when I cleaned the Basic I would seek coating bits in the rag.

Salamander :

The real test was my own personal useage over the last few months, in which it fared very well.

I could not agree more. This is in the end all that matters. The only reason I do controlled work is to quantify the performance, if an advantage is not readily observable in actual use then there is no real value in it.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 03-15-2000).]
 
Ok then...Are the old Battle Mistress' ground with a convex bevel to the edge? If so, could you please explain the significance of this. This is a collectors grade, #15. How may I observe to what extent the Spyderco has or has not affected this bevel? Detrimentally, what could I have already done, and how may I correct it ?

So far, the fine white ceramic rods have been used; however I am eager and willing to try whatever you may recommend. Where might I obtain a smooth steel, and the other items you listed for my benefit?

I would guess it is safe to assume that the blade will not corrode to any unmanagable degree under normal usage?

Thanks again,

Screwtape

BTW, what is the website mentioned in this thread?
 
I just got my strop from Hand American Made based on andy's recomendation! I love it! It made my sebenza soooooo sharp! These leather strops are the way to go!
Cliff,
Thanks for pointing me to the right(trailing) direction.
 
Mr Tape,
Do a search and find "Sharpening Question" username Copis. A week ago I posted the same question exactly! hope this helps.
 
Copis,
Thanks for the lead with your sharpening question! You posted that you have nearly the whole Busse Line...all with the symetrical Edge...my Battle Mistress looks to have a conventional Edge, but Mr. Stamp's posts have led me to believe that there might be a unique bevel to the Edge...I hope he reads my ongoing inquiries and alleviates any stress I'm having! Thanks for the info though, how do you like your symetrical edges?

Screwtape
 
Tape,
Your mistress has a symetrical edge that is convex on both sides. In order to maintain this symetrical convexity you need to sharpen away from the edge (the opposite of sharpmaker instructions)and buy a leather strop! Cliff is 100% right! Andy can supply the strop info you need.
 
Screwtape :

How may I observe to what extent the Spyderco has or has not affected this bevel? Detrimentally, what could I have already done, and how may I correct it ?

Take a wide marker and color in the bevel. Then make a few passes on the Sharpmaker. You should now be able to see exactly where metal is being removed from the edge. If the bevel was convex all you have done is change it to a v-ground one. The edge will be less durable and deep cuts will not be as smooth.

If you want to restore the convex bevel you simply use a strop to maintain the edge. In time it will round the bevels right back out again. If you want to speed the process up use a slack belt sander (which takes a fair amount of skill), or just use some sandpaper on styrofoam as a really abrasive strop.

Where might I obtain a smooth steel

Razor's Edge makes a nice one.

I would guess it is safe to assume that the blade will not corrode to any unmanagable degree under normal usage?

Not from what I have seen. If you start to see it, I would recommend that you use a decent protectant like Marine Tuf-Cloth.

-Cliff


[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 03-17-2000).]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top