Moras tend to roll and/or chip during first uses due to the gloss finish given with buffing that heat the very edge leaving it bit weaker. This should decrease after a couple of sharpenings, when you've grinded off the factory edge.
Helles are taken to 0 with 28-30° bevels, while Ahti have a very slightly convexed edge with 20° bevels. To be honest the bite and edge holding ends up being rather comparable.
If you're open to other suggestions as well, in the same pricerange of the Viking and the Wolverine you can have also a YP-Taonta volupuukko.
http://www.yp-taonta.fi/PUUKOT/index.html
https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/yrjo-puronvarsi-blades-yp-taonta/
Blades are handforged, as you can see on the Nordiskaknivar article.
Handles are made in the same way as are the Ahtis and Helles, roughing out the shape with routers then finishing on beltsander. Ferrules and rivets are made by Lauri Metalli Oy, the same factory that stamps the blades.
The sheaths are made by the Rämäkkö factory.
In my opinion YP-Taonta puukkos have the best price/performances ratio among mass produced puukkos, also counting they have handforged blades instead of factory ones.
The blades have a subtle rhombic (diamond like) cross section which has a mean bite on its own. Bevels are taken to 21°, are very slightly concave and the edge has just a hint of convex.
Though they aren't my absolute favourites for carving they have a very nice balance between resilience, edge holding and stability (1075 at 60 HRC). The blades themself are tapered enough to be agile and nimble while keeping enough weight for power cuts.
I've found the 1075 to be quicker to be restored compared to 80CrV2 or K510.