Hello! And a question...

T

Travbud1

Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
93
Hello,

Long time lurker, first time poster here. First and foremost, I'd like to thank all the contributors to the forums for the wealth of knowledge shared here. I've only been playing with leather for the past few months and really enjoying the hobby, so thank you all for the inspiration to start! I've made a few simple pouches/sheaths so far, and just finished my first belt the other night :)

I have a question about a sheath that I just started working on. I can't seem to find a picture to really describe what I'm going for, so please allow me to poorly explain ;)

I would like to build a cross draw/nearly horizontal setup for a small (6.5") fixed blade. Most sheaths I see like this are pouch style, with a large belt loop around the entire thing. This certainly seems like the easiest way, but truthfully I don't like the look of it at all. I also don't want to use a retaining strap like on a stacked type sheath, I'd rather have the handle be swallowed up by the mouth of the sheath. I then thought about a pancake style, but that seems way too bulky.

So, I guess what I'm envisioning is a stacked style sheath that envelops both the blade and enough of the handle to retain the knife. Has anyone done something like this before?

I cut out a pattern but quickly came to a problem. I've realized that to compensate for the height of the handle, I will either need to stack a bunch of welts together to match the taper, or maybe wet form the top layer separately?? I'm leaning towards the latter... Any of you pros out there have any thoughts?

I will try to get some pictures uploaded shortly, I'm still pretty new to the forum thing.

Thanks!
Travis
 
Welcome, Travis. I have made many sheaths similar to your description….but almost without exception they were pouch style sheaths, and that is because of the ease of attaching the semi horizontal belt loop. The stacked version is certainly possible, but stitching the edges of the sheath becomes problematic whether by hand or machine because the belt loop is in the way on one side…..ALWAYS.

The knife you pictured is a prime candidate for a pouch style sheath, in fact that's what it SHOULD have.

I have attached four photos below showing how I attached the belt loop (which can be at almost any angle), and also a finished sheath displaying the process.

Good luck!

Edit: On another note, it appears in your photo that you have one part that is totally unnecessary. It's either the back piece or the one immediately on top to that. Your single welt is all you need for that knife and the extra back piece just adds extra thickness with no apparent advantage. The finished sheath in my photo (#4) is two layers of 7/8 (when folded and glued in final form) with 2 oz. deer skin lining and a single 7/8 oz. welt, and the knife I covered is bigger and probably thicker handle than yours.

Paul
 
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Thank you Paul, that is a MUCH more elegant solution then wrapping the belt loop over the whole front of the sheath, which is exactly what I don't like about (most) done in this style. Clearly i didn't do enough research!

I had planned to use the extra piece on the bottom as the belt loop, sewn around the edge with slots cut to get the proper angle. Again, not the most elegant solution...

And now to go draw up a new pattern :)

Travis
 
I agree with Paul that knife wants a pouch style. Here's my version, I attach the loop a little different is all and its a fold over not a butterfly but still a pouch.

vniL0Bu.jpg


Your knife is also the perfect size for crossdraw carry. I get hesitant to make that type of sheath for any knife with a oal of 7" plus. Seven inches seem about as big as a guy can go there without it getting caught on life all the time.

czd8EAr.jpg


This one is carried over on the side by this guy. He's a lefty if the angles all look wrong. This knife is 7" oal and even though this guy is a big guy he prefers to carry it here, its more out of the way for him.

uvzpGuV.jpg


I do make a stacked version but only for one specific knife model. it simply doesn't work with other knives and so I developed the sheath style in the pics above. Can't show you a pic of the stacked one because imgur is not playing well with others this morning.
 
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Thanks for the advice and the pictures Dave, your craftsmanship gives me something to aspire to.

Here's where I'm at so far. Just need to burnish the seams, then another coat of neetsfoot oil and it's about done. I have been using a mix of bees wax and coconut oil as a finish. Wil this hold up ok or should I look into something else?



 
Looks good, Travis and you are on the right track for sure.. Look at the back of your sheath while I look at the photo of it.

While the sheath is still flat you should have a stitch holding the belt loop running right to left just a hair below the angle line you have wet molded on the loop (the angled stitch), from there 1/2" from the edges and parallel to the edge right to left (the straight line stitch), and from there to the starting point. With this method the belt loop is totally independent of needing any strength from the final edge stitch. That final edge stitch is just added insurance for the loop. Also the way you have it stitched now, the upper left portion of the wet molded line is unsupported by a stitch and with time the belt loop will open up there and your angle will vary.

My photo #2 above shows what I am trying to explain. The photo is a step or two BEFORE the final edge stitching. Photo #3 shows the edge stitch and the parallel loop stitch.

Paul
 
I know, I got a bit ahead of myself and totally goofed up on the belt loop. That old "measure twice, cut once" thing...

I'm going to go ahead and wear it as is for now. The next will be better!
 
Looks good!
Couple things you might try next go round... mainly aesthetics but I'll offer them for you to decide.
First is easy to fix and that is to round out the tip a little. Not a whole lot but enough to protect it from getting smashed out of shape. You might even do it to this sheath when finishing out the edges.
Then, it looks to me like the knife is rotated down further than it needs to be.(First photo, the knife seems to be sitting a few degrees clockwise further than it need be). I'm not sure how wide your welt is, and this may be what makes it stand out for me. You might try bringing the point of the knife up about 1/2" and redrawing your pattern in that position. I think it will help make the sheath a little less bulky and also make it easier to keep the retention you want.
Again, I want to say good job. Not much to pick on other than what will get better just by doing more and what Paul has already pointed out.

Chris
 
Looks good Travis. Stay with it they get better every time. Its great to have guys like Paul and Dave and many others to point us in the right direction. I learned a lot from this forum. Good luck
 
Well, here it is all burnished and waxed. Overall I am very happy with it. The stitching, especially on the backside, is a big improvement for me, and the burnish is the best I've managed so far.

Chris, I did take your advice and put a small radius on the tip. Thank you for mentioning that as it's something I'd never have thought about. About the angle of the knife, you're right it could probably be tilted a few degrees back ccw, more things to think about for the next one :)




 
Great Job Travis .... enjoyed the thread especially the finished sheath. Every one is a a learning experience ... now for the next one:D
 
Okay, Travis, you got me! The finished sheath in the photos is of a right hand cross draw sheath which is worn on the left front quarter of the body for right hand draw.

Now, unless you wear your pants backwards, the last photo appears to show it on the right side of your body, but still at the correct angle. The finished sheath in the photos should not be able to do that and if you did wear it on the right it would be tip forward and reverse angled.

The only other explanation would be you got the photo reversed somehow like a 35MM negative printed backwards …..OR Bingo!!
That's a mirror shot. That's it, no longer confused;)

Edit to add: Take a match or lighter and melt the fuzzies off of the thread on the back. Close ups show everything, good and bad.
Also, your choice and mixture of finish products should do the job and hold up well. Do consider PURE Neatsfoot oil (Not Neatsfoot Compound) for later projects.
Paul
 
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sheathmaker said:
Looks good, Travis and you are on the right track for sure.. Look at the back of your sheath while I look at the photo of it.

While the sheath is still flat you should have a stitch holding the belt loop running right to left just a hair below the angle line you have wet molded on the loop (the angled stitch), from there 1/2" from the edges and parallel to the edge right to left (the straight line stitch), and from there to the starting point. With this method the belt loop is totally independent of needing any strength from the final edge stitch. That final edge stitch is just added insurance for the loop. Also the way you have it stitched now, the upper left portion of the wet molded line is unsupported by a stitch and with time the belt loop will open up there and your angle will vary.

My photo #2 above shows what I am trying to explain. The photo is a step or two BEFORE the final edge stitching. Photo #3 shows the edge stitch and the parallel loop stitch.

Paul
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul, I'm learning from you also. Do you skive the belt loop along the edge stitch line to eliminate a lump?
John
 
Yes, John, that magic 1/2 inch space between the Sheath edge and the belt loop primary stitch line is also the area on the belt loop itself that is skived from full thickness graduating down to zero. This causes very little difference in thickness at the very edge. The same is done to the upper end of the belt loop strip prior to stitching it to the sheath so it lays nice and flat up there also. The actual stitch along the entire edge is really nothing but insurance as it relates to the belt loop strength.

Paul
 
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