Help choose a grinder

C

court jester

Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
55
Hi could you guys give me some advice on what grinder to buy, Grizzly makes a "G1015 Knife Belt Sander/ Buffer (2X72")" and it sounds okay but the 8" wheel is right on the motor spindal does the allow proper clearence or limitations on work done. The second choice is the Multi Tool II with 8" wheel (2X48"). Buth would be powered by a 1HP motor. Do you guys have any other suggestions and are these good choices for long term use? Also have you guys heard of a hollow grind attachment how does it work and is it recommended I am just a beginner trying my hand at this.
 
This is probably the most popular newbie question here, I know I asked a lot of people. I ended up with a Kalamazoo grinder in 2x48. The short story is that you won't get a lot of options if you don't spend the cash. The KMG is the favorite here, starts at 650$. I've used one, and if you have the $$$ it's worth the price.

The Grizzly gets OK reviews, but I think it's still kinda backordered from most places. Kalamazoo is pretty much mid-end also.

Hollow grinding is what happens when you grind a blade a little concave, vs. flat. This is done using a contact wheel, which is a wheel the belt goes over that gives the hollow grind. Usually a 10" wheel is the standard for this type of grind (different radius gives bigger or smaller hollow grind vs. how deep you want it).

The Grizzly is a pretty good choice, and it'll last you a while, but if you want to do this on a larger scale (and you probably will once you try it) then you might want to invest the money in a worthwhile project now.

Do a search through here for "grinder" or "belt grinder" and you're bound to find other topics just like this.

_z
 
i have one of the delta 1x42 + disc deals had it like a year works ok but im now looking to get a kmg or a little something being set up by higgins
dont let me put you off im glad i got the delta just now im just about ready for the next big cash lay out
butch
 
Coote is good. That's what I have and I like it a lot. So, what's this about Higgy coming out with a grinder???
 
KMG,Bader B3,Wilton.All good tools.Get at least a 1.5HP motor and if you can afford it,get a variable speed.
As far as the hollow grinding attachment.They work fine,are expensive,and by the time you set up a dedicated wheel,arm,hollow grinder,and elevator - you could have bought another KMG.You would need to learn to hollow grind by hand first anyway.I think most of the fellows here will agree that they are only a time saver for production people.Hollow grind by hand until you have it mastered,then you won't want one anyway.
Stacy
 
I have a 1HP motor that'll keep up with everything but really pushing on the belt. Which you don't really need to do unless you're removing like 1lb. of material or something crazy. Mine still goes really fast with 36 grit belts and the 60 grit ceramics.

_z
 
Yeah, ditto on the one horse motor, if you need to push the steel that hard into the belt, you are doing it wrong. Also, while i wish I could have gone with the kmg, I got a Coote which is built like a tank and I got the ten inch wheel with hollow grinding work rest shipped to Tn for $520.00. My baldor 1 hp was $130.00 for a total of $650.00 which is what a kmg cost with no hollow grinding wheel and less shipping. Only real regret is that I flat grind and with the kmg it would be much easier as it is setup so you can actually look down at your work. But I will be learning to hollow grind which I hear` is supposed to be easier and it is a great machine for that.
 
I've got a 2 horse DC, and I'd hate to have less, I also run the thing fast.

I can slow it down when I lean into it, but hey, I use it to make money, so I want it to make quick work of what I'm grinding.

I'm seriously thinking about getting a 3.5 horse grinder, as I'd like to remove metal faster than I do right now.

Tony
 
Okay so you guys 'like' the KMG right. What size wheel and why also who has the best prices it starts at $650 but a 10" wheel set-up is $840 with out motor, I just starting off and I scared if I'm not any good at this that I 'm out almost $1000, how hard is it to hollow grind, I made a tanto using a hack saw and a hand file I could make anything with a file and lot of time but never tried to grind the blade, I guess that is not a hollow grind just two bevelled edgeson both sides of the blade. No comments on the multi-tool?
Thanks for your responses guys I need all the advice I can get starting off.
 
8 or 10" wheel is good.Most of us who have ground for a while have them up to 14".Eventually you will want 1/2,3/4,1.5,3,5or6,8or10,14. I prefer the serrated in the larger sizes,but opinions differ.Hollow grinding is not hard.I would suggest purchasing the Hollow Grinding video by Johnny Stout.It will give you an idea of how things are done.Some makers say it is easier to hollow grind than flat grind.Also,try to hook up with another maker in your area,and he can let you try your hand at it.Always ,the schools are a first rate way to learn.
 
That's the pickle you get into.
If you get a cheap one and like it, you'll want to get a better one.
But if you spend a lot and only use it now and then, then you wish you saved the cash.
I'm pretty happy with my setup, however I do see the need for small diameter wheels, let alone any desire to hollow grind. It really helps you put say finger grooves into a handle, and you'll find yourself needing them for other projects too.

You do start liking it a lot once you start. You can't wait to get 10 more pieces of steel and start laying out knives.
Hollow grinding looks cool, but it's rarely necessary. Many makers here don't do any of it and their stuff still looks great. I prefer a flat grind myself.

_z
 
I bought the hollow grinding fixture and elevator when I first started and used it with my Bader III about three times. I found it was easier to hollow grind without the fixture in the long run. Just hold it firmly, tuck in your elbows and move your body back and forth slowly. There is alot of setup involved in using the fixture, and you're just putting off what you'll be doing eventually, that being hollow grinding with a contact wheel and no rest or fixture. Once you get your initial grind going, you just stay in the groove. It takes a little practice, but it's much more rewarding. I sold my fixture on ebay after using it three times.
#1, have fun!
Bill
 
Here's another vote for the Coote belt grinder :cool:
I've got one in 2X72 with a 10" wheel. Set it up with a 1.5 horse dayton high torque TEFC motor, and 3 speed step pulleys. I welded up my own motor mount that is hinged so that I only have to lift up the motor to change speeds, no tension adjustment or anything. Came in between $700 and $750 (can't remember exactly, try to forget how much money I've sunk into this stuff ;) )to cover the grinder and all my materials and hardware for making a mount and wiring it up.
I've used it for hollow, flat, and convex grinding now. It works best for hollow grinding at the height I have it mounted at, but it could be lowerd a couple inches and be very comfortable as a dedicated flat grinding machine also. Just a very nice grinder all around, and very good value.
If I had the money I'd buy a KMG, but tuition keeps going higher and eating away my budget for toys :grumpy: :mad: This is a great grinder for someone looking to get started with serious knifemaking equipment, and should serve them well forever though.
I tried using a 4X36 and still use it for handle work, but I hated it for grinding blades. I eventually went to an 8" bench grinder, then 2- 8" bench grinders to have multiple grits. I used them for almost 4 years and made a lot of knives on them. The quality and speed of my work, increased drastically in a very short period of time after starting in on the coote. I would not want to go back to anything less than a full blown 2X72 grinder now. Buy the best you can afford. If you want knifemaking to be anything more than a hobby you really need to have a full sized grinder.
I also agree with a 1.5hp motor. I know you can get by with a lot less, but its nice to have the muscle there when you need it. The price difference from a 1hp to 1.5hp is pretty small when you look at the total cost of the machine. I'd also recommend that you pick a capacitor start, continuous duty TEFC motor, with a high service factor. There are times when I'll run the grinder for hours at a time. Sometimes I really lean on it. The 1.5 horse motor I have, doesn't bog down, and runs smooth and cool. A smaller motor might run under that load, but its going to be straining and run hot. It definitely won't last as long.
 
I can only speak for the KMG and Grizzly. Both have served me well with no complaints. When I got my KMG I was suprised how much I still go to the grizzly for certain needs. I would save for the KMG if you could. Get the Small Wheel attatchment with it also. Sure makes guards and handle work easier.

Shane
 
just a thought you dont have to get rid of a 1x42 if you later want to get kmg
i like slack belting handles with it the delta that is
 
Like Stacy said, 8" would probably suit you better for smaller blades but the 10 " for the mid size to larger blades.

Shane
 
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