Help compile ranked list of stones for acquisition as I move to freehand sharpening!

AmericanEDC

AmericanEDC

Joined
Jun 5, 2013
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So I've been sharpening for a while with a Gatco system (similar to Lansky), then the Sharpmaker, then stropping with white and red rouge on an old high quality leather belt. My results have been fantastic with that process, creating razor sharp/hair popping with Wusthof Classic kitchen knives, and the occasional Benchmade 154cm. I've not yet sharpened anything in s30v, s90v or s35vn (got a Hinderer XM-18 today).

I'm moving onto freehand and feel that I'll be a pretty quick study though I realize it will take some practice.

My first stone acquired after watching some videos and agreeing with the concept is the Spyderco UF 8' x 3"

It's wrapped right now for my birthday on Monday but I'm excited to try it out.

What I'd love is a ranked list of NEXT purchases you would make in order, as I'm not going to likely be dropping a $1,000 on sharpening stones all at once or on systems.

I was thinking from research that next I might need the DMT diamond stones but which ones? Do I start with blue, red, green? Do I instead get some whetstones? Do I get DMT but the course, medium, fine?

Or do I buy a particular DMT and then some Japanese whetstones and use the DMT to flatten those also?

Basically I'm looking for some expert direction to go in moving onto freehand sharpening. After using the Gatco system I'm pretty happy with guide rods so I could go Edge Pro too without feeling too weak.

I know this topic has been covered a bit, but given my history and the high carbide steels I'm acquiring, and the fact that I already just purchased the Spyderco UF I was looking for some good input.

I'm not at all opposed to spending some time on blades, AND keeping up my blades. That's one of the reasons for the UF stone. I think by using it regularly I might be able to keep really sharp edges. My sense of that stone is that it's similar to steeling a knife to bring the apex back to straight (while also refining the edge)? But you have to have a sharp knife in the first place for it to matter. I have read many of the Sticky's.

Thank you!
 
I've been free hand sharpening for 60+ years and all I use is:

for rough, serious reprofiling - a double sided diamond hone (approx 6x3) from Smokey Mnt. Just started using this about a year ago. Only $6 at SMKW when I got mine (got three so I'd have extras).
for heavy duty sharpening, down to shaving sharp - a set of Washita, Soft and Hard Arkansas bench stones ((approx 8x3 each) This is the expensive part. A good three stones bench set should run about $75-100.
for hair spliting sharpness, fine emory taped to a board (paint stirrer): 600, 1500 grits
final for everything - a light stroping. Place your stones on a non-slip surface like non-skip rug backing (available
at most harware, home improvement, wally-world, etc. For my emory boards, I clamp them to the work bench with
clamps - old fashioned "C" clamps work, but I like the more modern spring clamps.

No need to waste a ton of $$$ on fancy systems and exotic stones. The "trick" is to simply get the bevel even on both sides by
holding the edge at the same angle on each stroke. I like about a 30 degree total bevel while most knives come from
shops/stores with a 40 degree bevel.

For practice get some junk knives at a local flea market or thrift store and practice on those. When you can get them
good and sharp (since they are most junk steel), you'll be able to sharpening good cutlery grade (even high tempered
carbon) with ease.

Be prepared to shave some skin off your thumb and maybe even get a nasty cut, but you will learn. Remember our
forefathers got shaving sharp knives and swords using rocks picked up off the side of the road :-)

Rich
 
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Thanks Rich, I'll look into some of these. Found the Arkansas stones you mentioned.....but did our forefathers have S90V Martensitic powder steels with high vanadium carbide levels? LOL! I'm wondering if these steels won't shave down the Arkansas stones to nubs? But what do I know?
 
Depends on what you sharpen.

My DMT diasharps XXC-EEF are hard to beat for PM steels.

My waterstones (to many to list) are great for everything else.

For most folders I like a fine diamond with a strop on 1 Micron diamond.

For Japanese kitchen knives I like natural stones but for soft German steels the Naniwa 2k "green brick" does best.


I would recommend a coarse/ fine duosharp and strop for your folders and a set of waterstones for your kitchen knives, carbon steels, and anything that the diamonds won't work with.

Arkansas stone are good but by far the slowest sharpening method and as you suspect will not work with modern steels.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Depends on what you sharpen.

My DMT diasharps XXC-EEF are hard to beat for PM steels.

My waterstones (to many to list) are great for everything else.

For most folders I like a fine diamond with a strop on 1 Micron diamond.

For Japanese kitchen knives I like natural stones but for soft German steels the Naniwa 2k "green brick" does best.


I would recommend a coarse/ fine duosharp and strop for your folders and a set of waterstones for your kitchen knives, carbon steels, and anything that the diamonds won't work with.

Arkansas stone are good but by far the slowest sharpening method and as you suspect will not work with modern steels.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the direction....

I don't see XXC-EEF mentioned on their website. What is that designation?

For stropping are you referring to diamond sprays at 1 micron?

Funny you mention Japanese kitchen knives. I'll be replacing my German 8" chef I think with a Japanese in the not too distant future.
 
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XXC = extra extra coarse 120 mesh diasharp

Through,

EEF = extra extra fine 8000 mesh diasharp.

It's a 6 stone (plate) set of diamonds that will allow you to do about anything to a PM steel. PM steel = particle metallurgy, all the CPM stuff and the like.

Yes, diamond spray. I would recommend its use on balsa wood. Balsa wood makes a great strop substrate.

Japanese kitchen cutlery is the best :)
 
Thanks again. I'll probably spring for some of the DMT's.

Thanks for the acronym primer. This particle metallurgy is confusing. I need to learn how it's made, as intuitively it seems like the particles all melt together into a sauce...maybe not.

Yes, was researching Japanese knives the other day: the Miyabi Birchwood SG2 in 8" Chef's, caught my eye. Owned by JA Henckels but it appears they are using Japanese craftsmanship at a high level.
 
PM steel is basically a ceramic, its in a powder form and is then pressed at high pressure and heat back into a solid to for a steel with alloy levels not possible under normal processes.

Thats not a Japanese knife.... Might be made in Japan but its far from the real thing.
 
You may be correct on the fancy new steels. I got a Roselli UHC Carpenter (tempered to 64) and it is a bit*h to sharpen. Only my diamond hones will touch it. I'm mainly a carbon steel guy and I stand by my comments for standard carbon cutlery steels and most modern stainless. Diamond is too tough on some steels. I carry a Victorinox Deluxe Tinker as my EDC and a diamond hone just eats the blade on Victorinox's steel (what ever it is).

Rich
 
Rich S said:
You may be correct on the fancy new steels. I got a Roselli UHC Carpenter (tempered to 64) and it is a bit*h to sharpen. Only my diamond hones will touch it. I'm mainly a carbon steel guy and I stand by my comments for standard carbon cutlery steels and most modern stainless. Diamond is too tough on some steels. I carry a Victorinox Deluxe Tinker as my EDC and a diamond hone just eats the blade on Victorinox's steel (what ever it is).

Rich
Click to expand...

You should try waterstones, they would make quick work of that hard carbon steel. Using the diamond hones on it might work but is not doing the steel any favors.
 
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