help from the diamond savvy?

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
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I have done some cursory reading on diamond selection, and these are the search results for cushion cuts from Blue Nile, MDC, Union, and Adiamor based on the filtering I applied. For the E-ring, right now I am thinking something vintage-looking like a cathedral with halo, side diamonds, and maybe filigree in white gold/platinum in. Size 8.

Anywho, I know some of you fine gents do jewelry work along with blades, or are otherwise knowledgeable, so I would appreciate some advice on the stone selection with the setting. Either some pointers on what to select out of the pics or if I should adjust some levels. I am not stuck with just these, but if I shop "local" (out of country right now) or go to another site, I'd like to better know what to select.

BTW, if i add in SI1, the number of stones goes up considerably on adiamor & union. Are the inclusions not visible to the naked eye at this grade, even if in the area under the table?
 
You posted no links or photos, but here is some advise. BTW, I am a GIA certified appraiser, gemologist, and goldsmith.

The best diamond for the dollar is a certified stone, GIA is the best cert, EGL is second best. All other certs are a selling tool, and not of great worth.
A GIA stone will cost about 10% to 15% more than an EGL stone, because the grading is stricter. They both use the same terminology, but a GIA stone graded as SI-2/I color will often get an EGL grading of VS-2/G......Same stone, just sounds better.....but quite misleading. There also is a lot of variance in EGL certs , while all GIA certs will be much tighter to the grading rules. Two SI-1/H EGL stones can be a lot different. Two GIA SI-1/H diamonds will be nearly identical.

The grading of diamonds is done with microscopes and magnifier loupes. All grades above "I" should have inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye. In color, the scale goes from D up through the alphabet. All stones below "I" should look white to the eye. The yellowing of the color does not get noticeable until "K". The best bang for the buck is a SI clarity and an H to I color. You can't see the difference between a SI-1 and a VVS-1 with the naked eye, but the price can be 50-100% higher. Similarly, a D color diamond mounted in a ring does not look much different to the naked eye than an H color, but costs a lot more.

In size, carats are weight. The diameter of a stone increases in proportion to the weight, but it is not a linear proportion. A 3/4 carat stone is 6mm (approx.) and a 1 carat stone is 6.5mm. Double the diamond weight and you only have a8mm for a 2 carat stone. The prices go up as you cross the weight thresholds, so a stone just below a threshold is going to be virtually the same size in mm, but will be cheaper per carat. Thus a 1.00 carat diamond will cost 10% more than a .97 carat, even though the weight is only 3% more. Look for stones just below the threshold.

Look for stones that are of good proportion.The sparkle and "fire" of a diamond is a product of the proportions. A poorly cut stone may look dull. Let your eye tell you what looks good, but check the cert to see if the proportions are good to excellent.

Any reputable company will allow you to have a diamond independently verified and returned if you are not satisfied. If there are any restrictions ( besides time) on this, don't buy from that seller. Take the diamond, preferably unset, to a gemologist and get the cert verified. There is usually a small fee for this, but when spending thousands of dollars, it is wise to get the stone verified that it is what the papers say it is.

It is best if buying a diamond online to buy a loose stone. Have it verified and set by a local jeweler, or send it to one you know and respect. The mountings can be picked out from the online catalogs if needed. A local jeweler is best if you plan on staying in the area, because he will service the ring. He should check and clean the ring for free as often as needed, and minor repairs and adjustments should be free.

When buying online, caveat emptor. You can't look at the stone in any different light, turn it around, or compare it to another stone. Blue Nile and the other sites are great for a deal, but they only sell the stones, you have no personal relationship with the seller once the sale is over.( actually, Blue Nile isn't even the seller, you are just buying a stone from one of thousands of sellers who put their stones on Blue Nile. You don't really have any idea about the stones source.) Any future issues, once the sale is closed, are your problem. Dealing with a local jeweler who has a good reputation is perhaps a few dollars more, but you get the after sales service and the reputation as part of the deal. In ten years will your wife display the diamond and proudly say, "My husband saved a few bucks and got my diamond online." or " My husband got my diamond at Solomonsky's Jewelers." True, it is only worth so much, but it is something to consider.

Have the ring appraised and put it on your homeowners policy as a separate rider. It costs about $11 per thousand of value to insure the ring. Money well spent. You don't need to insure the ring for the amount of the appraisal if it is significantly higher than the retail price. Just because the appraisal is $8,000 ,doesn't mean you can't insure it for $5,000 if you know that is the realistic replacement value. The insurance company isn't going to pay you more than they can replace the ring for, anyway, so you are paying 8K in premiums, and only will get 5K in return if damaged,lost, or stolen. If you do not separately insure the ring, you are only covered by a small amount on most homeowners policies, and that is only for casualty. It does not cover damage or loss....just fire and theft. Most policies have a limit of from $500 to $2000 , and that is for all jewelry lost, not per piece.




I don't try and undersell ,or steal away a customer, but feel free to send me an email and I will see what I can do for you, and will be glad to advise you on any price you want checked. sapelt@cox.net

For those Forumites who may be thinking about getting engaged, or need a nice gift for Christmas, I always have some 1/2 carat range diamonds set aside that I keep for friends and family. These are stones I obtained at great prices, and keep to pass along to friends.
I also have some nice rings, ear rings, and antique pieces set aside. Send me an email if you want more info.
 
Sorry about the missing attachments. Internet access is terrible here, particularly during the evenings, and I just spent the last 17 minutes trying to get my BF attachments to load.

Here's what I had filtered for

cushion cut (she likes vintage/antique items, so I'm kinda thinking she will like this, but I need to talk her sister or a friend into verifying subtly)
0.88 to 1.5 carat
minimum very good on polish & symmetry
no culet
depth 56-64%
table 52-62% (percentages roughed out from online suggestions, could be way off)
VS1 or better
color G or better
fluorescence faint or none

I am assuming that I am setting the bar slightly high. I also don't know what size diamond is best for her ring size and the setting I'm considering. Price is a consideration, but not a huge one. I will just say that by the two month salary rule, I can currently afford a ring neither of us would actually feel comfortable showing our family and friends because I managed to luck out on a contract. So nothing too large, but also, I can pay for qualities in a smaller stone that apparently take at least significant magnification and extensive training to notice. I want quality, but just to provide her something beautiful, not really to brag about.
 
You will not do better than to talk to Stacy. Seriously. I am a jeweler as well, but Stacy has me on skill, experience, and expertise (he also is a hell of a nice guy which is not something you can normally say about someone you should be competing with)
Seriously, everything he said above is spot-on.
Additionally one thing to worry about from online and unknown sources is "fracture filled"
http://lgdl.gia.edu/pdfs/f94_fracture_filling.pdf

and other "enhancements"
There are a bunch of online direct and online indirect (like Blue Nile) jewelry sellers, but you really want to deal with someone you can trust, and that you will be able to talk to after the money has changed hands.

-Page
 
On a no culet cushion ( culet as a line) the depth should be about 58-60%. Table proportion varies a lot, depending on the overall shape and cut ( "cushion" covers a range of different cuts), but the range you listed should be fine. VS-1 /G or better will cost you a good bit extra. When you enter the VVS range and go below G, the price escalates rapidly.
 
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