Help! How bad did I hurt my cuda talonite?

Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
12
The other day I was changing batteries in a walkie-talkie
and couldn't get the thing out with my fingers, so I
pulled out my cuda talon and pried it out. I then noticed
the tip of the blade was bent about twenty degrees. I
could not believe this happened. Obviously there are some
things I don't know about this steel. So, I took out my
Leatherman wave and streightend the blade, but can see a
dimple in the blade. Question: Has the tip strength
been compromised? How did it bend in the first place?:mad:
 
If I remember correctly talonite is relitevly low on the Rc scale, and it will bend easily, but not break.

Wait and see what someone with more knowledge has to say to make sure I wasn't halucinating again;)
 
Talonite makes for a very poor prybar. It's great for cutting but can chip fairly easily. RC I think is in the 40's. What makes it hard are the carbides in the matrix. Contact Camillus to see if it can be fixed.
 
Talonite is NOT a steel, it is a cobalt alloy with about 1/2 the flex strength of most steels and a 20 point lower RC (which is a huge difference). The carbides formed when the alloy is heat-treated (a fair amount of carbon is present, along with carbide-formers) are responsible for a hard cutting edge.

However that's just what makes a Talonite blade a poor choice (in my opinion) for an EDC. It nicks, notches and bends very easily; it takes very little abuse. You can put a good nick or notch in a Talonite blade by hitting a staple while cutting cardboard or by hitting a bone while cutting meat.

If you are aware of the above and use your knife accordingly, you'll have a fine cutter that takes and holds a very sharp edge for a long time and is easy to resharpen. It's also impervious to corrosion; just knock the goo out occasionally and it will look just like new.

How did it happen? You used a weak material as a pry-bar. Want to try again? You'll probably get the same result.

Scott Dog is giving you good advice. Contact Camillus to see what your next step should be.
 
How much of the tip was bent? If it is a fraction of an inch, you could always reprofile the blade.

Talonite is a very good material when used appropriately. Reading posts on the various forums around here will reveal many tales of what it is good at and what it does not handle. The softness of the material makes it a poor choice as a prybar. That being said, I am sure you are not the only one to do some light prying which a Talon. I suspect the damage is more psycological then physical. Unless you bent it pretty far back, there are reasonable options to restore it to its previous functionality.

I wish you good fortune in your restoration.
 
Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions.
The tip that bent is about 1/32" so I am not very upset,
but I will contact Camillus for further advise. I have
definitly learned my lesson!
 
*whew*

I was picturing a partial crease 1/4" the way down :eek:

I have a CUDA Talon in Talonite on its way and i was getting worried. For the most part I already know about its pros and cons from reading and 'some' experience with talonite blades but have never heard of any bends like what i thought you were talking about at first ;)
 
Talonite is awesome stuff. It cuts like nothing else, IMHO. You don't want to pry or hit anything especially hard though. Here's the perfect to carry in addition to a Talonite knife. Great combo. I bought one a month or two ago, and love it!!!



prymini2.jpg

Click Here for Prybaby info
 
The tip will be weakened because it was bent, and will now bend easier. The solution would be to grind off the damaged metal. This will thicken the tip and actually make it stronger than before, but of course you lose poking ability.

As for the cutting ability, this is determined by the blade geometry to such a degree it pretty much swamps out all other factors. Now of course if a handle won't let you exert any force on the blade or the balance is really off for the intended task then the blade can cut very poorly even with a great geometry (try to chop with a neutral bowie for example). However, the actual blade material has only a very small influence and when the geometries are equal, it can only be noticed in extreme cases like comparing the cutting ability of D2 vs 52100 at a very high polish.

52100 will win a push cutting contest as the grain structure of D2 will prevent the edge from being as fine. However if the D2 blade is ground just a little thinner or more acute then it will easily overtake the 52100 blade. The opposite happens in regards to slicing, D2 will take the lead here readily as the carbide structure is 10-20 times more coarse. Of course 52100 left coarse will easily out slice D2 if left highly polished so the choice of sharpening (and quality) have major influences as well. Of both blades are left very coarse then both will again slice pretty much the same.

There will be differences in edge retention depending on what is cut of course so the lifetimes of the edges will be very different and this is the critical factor which is greatly influenced by the steel choice. The wear resistance of D2 is *much* greater than 52100 and the hardness is usually ahead by 1-2 RC points. However the toughness and ductility of 52100 is more than D2, so which one wins out in edge holding depends on what and how you are cutting.

Now of course the blade material is what determines the functional level of geometry as better materials mean you can use less of them as less is needed for a specific amount of toughness or strength. However in this respect Talonite actually demands more material as it is soft and weak. You can create a better cutting blade out of a much harder and stronger steel, few people do though, most knives on the market are very overbuilt for light cutting, many times to one. It is common to see edges on pocket knives that are actually functional for large chopping knives.

-Cliff
 
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