HELP: How to disassemble a Yojimbo?

Daniel L

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Nov 2, 1998
Messages
1,975
Ok - I've taken apart the obvious screws, but the spacer / standoff at the butt end doesn't come out from the G10. It just rotates around the 2 G10 slabs.

Is that spacer glued in or flared in the lanyard hole? I don't want to force it in case I break the G10...

Has anyone managed to fully disassemble their Yojimbo yet?
 
I haven't seen one up close, but if it's anything like my CPM440V Military it could just be a REALLY tight fit. On that knife the lanyard tubing/spacer is an aluminum piece that simply fits in by friction. The screws holding everything together likewise keep it in place, too. I had to really work the handles to pop them off this spacer/tube.

I have no idea if it's the same on the Yojimbo, though, so proceed with caution!
 
If it's the same as the Gunting and the Lil T, it's just press-fit and then flared into the G10.

Why do you need to remove it?

Some people have suggested to me that removing the bushing can cause looseness after reassembly if you disturb the G10 or don't re-flare it (this is just an observation, not official Spyderco doctrine -- AFAIK they have never approve/condone disassembly) so I've always left it in there.

-j
 
I bascially want to remove the spacer so I can send it, the clip and the other spacer to a guy who will do a black coating. (I hate shiny bits that attract attention to the pocket.)

Hmm... has anybody else given it a go?
 
Ehh... I take no responsibility if you really screw things up.

Having said that... Chiro75's right.

The round disk spacer itself should lift out easily, and the bushing/tube should just yank or push out with pliers, your fingers, or a punch.

It worked for my Gunting.

Good luck, especially with the reassembly.

-jon
 
Best of luck.

If you need help, yer welcome to come on back and we'll see how we can help.

I had a little confusion refitting the bushing/tube, but it fit better turning it around.

-j
 
If it's the same as the Military, then just sort of work the scales around and it'll loosen enough to pull apart sans tools.

What material is this? Is it aluminum or steel? If it's steel you could (AFTER removing the parts!!!!), blacken it (more like dark gun metal grey) using nothing more than heat. Get it to red hot and let it cool and there you have it. If it's aluminum you'll need to anodize it chemically, I believe. Anodizing Al is a much different process than anodizing Ti, for example. For Al it requires an electric current which essentially makes the outer layer of Al more porous, then the use of special dyes to color the piece.
 
I can rotate the G10 slabs around the spacer - I can see that it's fixed in one and rotating in the other G10 slab, so I'm concluding that it looks glued on one side (maybe loctite - I can see where it looks like it dripped out) and flared in the other.

Hence I'm not going to be able to remove it without breaking it :(
 
Daniel,

Sorry to hear it... that really sucks! :(

You'll still be able to blacken the other hardware and the blade, right?

-j
 
Maybe this is a stupid question and I apologize if I sound ignorant bit why would you want to disassemble it? I dont understand why someone would take apart a perfectly good knife other to make modifications. Am I missing something? I hope the tone of this reply doesnt sound mean in any way, but I am genuinely curious because Ive never taken apart any of my knives. Whats to gain?
 
Daniel L said:
I bascially want to remove the spacer so I can send it, the clip and the other spacer to a guy who will do a black coating. (I hate shiny bits that attract attention to the pocket.)

Chris,

That's why. :)

As for me, I do it so I can increase the lock tension. Sometimes my liner/compression lock knives have poor lock tension -- insufficient to push the lockbar over to fully engage the tang.

-j
 
I apologize, I missed that part. Im just one of those people who are really good at taking things apart and cant get them back together. I ment no disrespect by my last post.
 
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