Help identify this steel

D

Dave_the_Mason

Joined
Apr 15, 2021
Messages
3
Hey guys,
Was out looking for a ASO today and found this 6" round. Spark tested it and its definitely High Carbon Steel, but I'm unsure how to go about heat treating it. or do I even need to do that?

I've searched high and low for any mentions of the markings and I'm coming up blank.

Thanks

https://imgur.com/dauRQj1
 
well there is no easy way to say this so here goes!! all Iron based steel shows the yellow orange sparks.. that does not mean they all can/will heat treat..
you will need to take preferably a small piece of it and try to harden it then break it to see the grain structure it has.. if it won't heat treat that is it game over..
this is probably the #1 question asked can i use this XXXX metal to make a knife from ??? no one knows without trying to heat treat the "Mystery steel" and how could they ??
unfortunately there is no "Database" of everything made and what metals/alloys they used to make it.. a Axle for a car is way better metal than a brake drum/disc.. hope you see the point..
 
Pinoy Knife said:
well there is no easy way to say this so here goes!! all Iron based steel shows the yellow orange sparks.. that does not mean they all can/will heat treat..
you will need to take preferably a small piece of it and try to harden it then break it to see the grain structure it has.. if it won't heat treat that is it game over..
this is probably the #1 question asked can i use this XXXX metal to make a knife from ??? no one knows without trying to heat treat the "Mystery steel" and how could they ??
unfortunately there is no "Database" of everything made and what metals/alloys they used to make it.. a Axle for a car is way better metal than a brake drum/disc.. hope you see the point..
Click to expand...
I tested it based on a spark test chart. It showed the multiple sprigs and the correct length, but I agree, I don't think I'll ever know for sure.

And just to be clear, I want to use this as a makeshift anvil, not make a knife out of it.
 
oh that might be different!! but you still want to heat treat it to keep it from dishing out when you pound steel on it..it does not get as hard as a knife blade..
many "Anvils" are cast steel/iron with a harder working surface on the top.. many are "Special Heat resistant steels to make up the top of the anvil..
 
If you want to HT it, id just try the ol' fire by the creek method. Use a campfire with a bellows to get it hot enough to be nonmagnetic, then roll it down the hill into the creek. If it hardens, take it to your oven and bake it at 500 or so for 2 hours, twice.
Might work...
 
I would venture a guess it is already HTed. The letters/numbers don't meant anything to me, but HT usually means it is heat treated. Your bright sparks also may indicate that. I would use it as-is.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I would venture a guess it is already HTed. The letters/numbers don't meant anything to me, but HT usually means it is heat treated. Your bright sparks also may indicate that. I would use it as-is.
Click to expand...
A lot of the cut offs this guy has are from the local shipyard that makes subs for the Navy. Probably one of the military's crazy numbering systems, could mean anything.
I file tested it and unfortunately, the file dug in. it is pretty hard though so I'm just going to use it as is I think.
 
Files are Rc 65-70. Hardened large rounds and anvils may be Rc 45-55. If you have a friend or nearby shop with a hardness tester, have it tested. Otherwise., use it as-is. If there is a problem, then consider a plan B.
 
I have bought shipyard surplus round stock in 5, 6, and 7". Some was marked S-7 and others were something that appears to be 4140or similar. My almost 400 pound post anvil and many small round anvils I have given away are from the S-7 shaft cutoff. Even unhardened it makes a good post anvil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top