HELP! Is it possible to buy bars of already heat treated steel?

S

Squashfan

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Jun 6, 2012
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I am in the process of heavily modifying a Cold Steel Paradox but the standard back springs leaves a lot to be desired. I bent the springs so that they would allow the knife to flow freely but now the springs contact the edge. Pic: Sorry for the bad picture. Look in the middle of the handles and you will see where the blade hits the backspring.
What I was hoping to get was a bar of some material so that I could make replacements for both back springs and a T latch.
 
Yes you can purchase heat treated steel. You will not however be able to cut it with a band saw. It would have to be done on a wire EDM at a machine shop. Try bending them back for the time being. Good luck.
 
Profiling and especially drilling hardened steel is not as much fun as it looks. I'd recommend against it if at all possible.

Do you like the action the spring has now? If so, just grind a little relief in the spot where it contacts the edge. From your pic it doesn't look like it would take more than a few thousandths.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have tried unsuccesfully to add a detent to a knife. That was with a carbide endmill, too. So if I could avoid drilling that would be super.
Well, the springs only act as the blade stops. If it was not for that, I would replace the springs with spacers. No spring action needed, just the toughness to not break when the knife is flipped. I might still have to add a stop pin just to keep the edge off of the backspring. But I have been worring that the backsprings would break, if I shaved too much off.
 
Markesharp said:
Yes you can purchase heat treated steel. You will not however be able to cut it with a band saw. It would have to be done on a wire EDM at a machine shop. Try bending them back for the time being. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Or a water jet which is much faster.
 
If you are sure the spring tension will not be worked on/used, half of the current bar thickness should still work, as it only used to hold the kick in place.

But ... Only if the part near tang has anchor point, which I don't see. Otherwise the full length tension is needed to keep the kick steady in closed position, means it will need more steel there.

Good luck!
 
Sadly, the only anchor points for the spring are the two near what would be the latch end of the handle. I want to try bending the kick spring towards the blade but I think that even then I will have blade to spring contact during flipping. That is why I am thinking about putting in a stop pin. I just don't see a 100% fool proof alternative. But I am open to all suggestions and thanks for all of the help folks!
 
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