Help - M9 LE SR 101 started rusting what should I do?

Joined
May 9, 2009
Messages
65
Hi,
My Swamp Rat M9 LE made of SR 101 steel with a satin finish has just started to rust. It is just surface rust which started as black oxidization along the tang metal between the G10 handle slabs. Its 99 percent black oxidization right now so its not to late. How can I remove this rust/oxidization properly?
Thanks in advance!
 
Once you get the rust off, I recommend Boeshield T-9 spray to keep the rust off. I use it on cast iron tool tables and it works really well, even here in the rainy Pacific NW winters. When the "How can I keep rust at bay" threads come up on the woodworking forums, Boeshield T-9 is always a high ranking contender for method-of-choice.

You can get it at Sears, as well as most woodworking supply stores. Sears has it in a kit with Rust Free (basically phosphoric acid) for around $25 dollars or a little less.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928468000P

The Rust Free works well to remove surface rust, but left a freckled patina appearance on my cast iron tool tops. I don't mind since I know it got there doing a good job removing rust. But on a nice LE knife, that spotted appearance might be objectionable.

Nakatomi, you can find Renaissance wax at Woodcraft, Rockler, and lots of other woodworking supply vendors. It comes in 4 oz, 7 oz, and 3 liter sizes. I recommend the 4 oz can for around $15, since a little goes a long, long way. A thin coating is the goal and, given its relatively high price (compared to Johnson's paste wax, which is another contender) you don't want to waste any of it by applying a thick coat of which most gets wiped off as excess. I leave the lint-free cotton rag in the can after application and it eventually gets pretty saturated with Renwax. Thereafter, I don't really need to "load" the cloth much at all.... just pull it out of the can and rub the very thin film that comes off from its stay in the can onto whatever surface I'm waxing.
 
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Once you get the rust off, I recommend Boeshield T-9 spray to keep the rust off. I use it on cast iron tool tables and it works really well, even here in the rainy Pacific NW winters. When the "How can I keep rust at bay" threads come up on the woodworking forums, Boeshield T-9 is always a high ranking contender for method-of-choice.

You can get it at Sears, as well as most woodworking supply stores. Sears has it in a kit with Rust Free (basically phosphoric acid) for around $25 dollars or a little less.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928468000P

The Rust Free works well to remove surface rust, but left a freckled patina appearance on my cast iron tool tops. I don't mind since I know it got there doing a good job removing rust. But on a nice LE knife, that spotted appearance might be objectionable.

Nakatomi, you can find Renaissance wax at Woodcraft, Rockler, and lots of other woodworking supply vendors. It comes in 4 oz, 7 oz, and 3 liter sizes. I recommend the 4 oz can for around $15, since a little goes a long, long way. A thin coating is the goal and, given its relatively high price (compared to Johnson's paste wax, which is another contender) you don't want to waste any of it by applying a thick coat of which most gets wiped off as excess. I leave the lint-free cotton rag in the can after application and it eventually gets pretty saturated with Renwax. Thereafter, I don't really need to "load" the cloth much at all.... just pull it out of the can and rub the very thin film that comes off from its stay in the can onto whatever surface I'm waxing.

Good post. Virtual green chicklet awarded.
 
I can't believe it hasn't been said....


Send it to me! :D:p;)

Seriously though, you have been given good advice. :thumbup:
 
I gave mine a mirror polish and keep the blade oiled with CLP. It is still taking on a fine patina on the handle but there is no red rust. I've been thinking about soaking it in vinegar for a bit to hustle the patina along.
 
Is it a user or a safe queen ?

I ask because I think the wax would be a pain on a user.

Letting it patina if it is a user is not a bad idea ?

SR101 will rust like crazy if you do not keep it oiled, I got a "Dog Skinner" in a trade & in the time it took it to travel across the country(priority mail) the previous owners finger prints rusted in the blade & would not wipe off :eek:

SO if you want them to stay nice & new, oil them.

Another way I heard (& tried on my Severtech) to hurry up the patina, put yellow mustard on it for about a day, then scrub it off, it leaves some interesting patterns.
 
I wipe all of my blades off with a Tuf cloth before they get put away.

Lubricant never hurts.
 
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